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ECMlink Help getting car to Idle

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TJCTalon

10+ Year Contributor
925
73
Aug 20, 2009
Nebraska
Okay so this is a bit of a situation. Im getting my 1997 up and running after its been sitting for 10-11 years. Today I finally got it buttoned up enough to try and start. I completely redid the fuel system, including new feed 8an and 6an return lines. New Wally 450 pump with rewire, new fuelab filter, FIC fuel rail. I sent my 1350's to FIC and had them cleaned. Fuel tank has been completely cleaned out and it has a fresh 5 gallons of E85 in it. Its been so long, but I know there wasnt anything mechanically wrong with the car. I was battling trying to get it to pass emissions before I parked it.

All of my ECU settings were gone when I finally got hooked up to ECMlink. I guess 10 years of no power will do that. Prior to this car sitting, If I remember correctly, I was in the middle of getting it remote tuned on Speed density. Unfortunately all of my settings were loss and im starting new. It has been so long for me using link, im very very rusty. Ive spent most of this afternoon doing research and trying to get things right. I got it to start and run earlier. Now it just cranks and half ass starts here and there.

Just need some insight on what im doing wrong so I can get this thing to idle. Just need to get it to a starting point. Ill include the few logs that I have. It only ran very briefly, and would die as soon as you hit the throttle. I believe the log it is running, I didnt have my wideband and speed density stuff as a captured value. The no start log I finally figured out how to display those values. I know im missing and doing something wrong here.
 

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Try setting your global at -50 and see if that helps.

Do you have a Log of it with your Wideband captured? I also noticed that your Coolant based fuel adjustment table is changed. Set that back to the stock value until you get your VE table in check. Your voltage based deadtime table is changed too, is that correct with your Data Sheet?
 
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Start with base settings. The 1350's are the high impedance? If so then you have the injector resistor box deleted? Then do you have a data sheet on the injectors? If you do use those in the inj bat adjust, if you do not leave that stock. Then use the calculator to figure a start point.

Memory says 9:7:1 or something like that for e85. Then I'm guessing few hundred dead time. That with correct setting's will be at least enough to get the car to start and idle. -10 is quite a lot for TPS offset, I would adjust it closer to start myself. -66% global does not seem right, 2150cc usually end up 58-63% on e85. SD table is modified but in the idle cells in the 50's that's close enough for it to idle for now.

I see you have narrow band simulation enabled, do you have a factory front O2 or are you simulating it right now? Your pin assignments data logging PC side are not set from what I see. I would reset most of the DA tables as almost all the tabs have been modified. That said the fuel and timing tables are not the worst i have seen but being those are from a long time ago i would start fresh. The mid high 11's is fine target for e85, the timing map is aggressive and for a lower comp smaller charger set up for sure pulling through peak TQ at that timing is quite a lot on any kind of larger set up or higher compression.
 
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Try setting your global at -50 and see if that helps. do you have a Log of it with your Wideband captured? I also noticed that your Coolant based fuel adjustment table is changed. Set that back to the stock value until you get your VE table in check. Your voltage based deadtime table is changed too, is that correct with your Data Sheet?

Yes I eventually got my wideband to log. It's off by a little from what the gauge says. Something i need to get figured out. I was going to follow Gofers video about manually adjusting, but it seems my wideband and wideband voltage are cycling so fast it's hard to see what voltage is displaying at the same time as glancing at my wideband. Also my TPS volts read .63 but once running it goes up to .67. Do I need to adjust it for voltage when running or off?

I ended up swapping the MAF from my other Talon onto this car. I was getting worried that there was something mechanically wrong with the car. After changing some settings and uploading the Evo settings the car fired right up and ran decently. I'll attach the log.

I'm glad it ended up being the tune. I just want it running good enough to drive around to figure out all the other quirks and issues a car has after sitting for so long.
 

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Yes I eventually got my wideband to log. Its off by a little from what the gauge says. Something i need to get figured out. I was going to fallow gofers video about manually adjusting, but it seems my wideband and wideband voltage are cycling so fast its hard to see what voltage is displaying at the same time as glancing at my wideband. Also my TPS volts read .63 but once running it goes up to .67. Do I need to adjust it for voltage when running or off?

I ended up swapping the MAF from my other talon onto this car. I was getting worried that there was something mechanically wrong with the car. After changing some settings and uploading the evo settings the car fired right up and ran decently. Ill attach the log. Im glad it ended up being the tune. I just want it running good enough to drive around to figure out all the other quirks and issues a car has after sitting for so long.
Glad that worked... I adjusted my TPS with the car running because my TPS would do the same thing. For your wideband, With the key on Engine off and the sensor unplugged from your gauge your wideband should read 14.7 so you would go in under "Displayed Values" and "Raw Values) you just need to log your "RawRrO2VoltsInput(AEM Uego WB)" and you would just change what you have entered under "Max Volts" to the value displayed from your RawLinWB on your wideband and that will fix that issue.
 
Glad that worked... I adjusted my TPS with the car running because my TPS would do the same thing. For your wideband, With the key on Engine off and the sensor unplugged from your gauge your wideband should read 14.7 so you would go in under "Displayed Values" and "Raw Values) you just need to log your "RawRrO2VoltsInput(AEM Uego WB)" and you would just change what you have entered under "Max Volts" to the value displayed from your RawLinWB on your wideband and that will fix that issue.
Well don't you need to lock the car in open loop to get it to run rich to get the other voltage?
 
Has been a while since I did the linwideband on the older AEM. Memory says I would key on sensor unhooked would show 14.7 that voltage raw logged was switch point. Then lock car in open loop force lean and rich idle.

I would use phone to record the laptop screen and gauge face. Then go back through it and match up to find the values, even them sometimes quirks would happen with the older ones. Have become a fan of the x line now. You wire it correctly with the sensor ground power ect, enter values from the sheet in linwideband it matches dead on. I still always too recommend a factory front o2 anyway for a car that drives on street. The simulate works but have always had better results that way.
 
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