CrackedDSM
10+ Year Contributor
- 3,474
- 2,628
- Dec 17, 2009
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Pensacola,
Florida
Wrote “trucks r slow” in the dust on it to piss off the toothless neighbors I have. Minorly succeeded.
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The mtxl has 2 choices of wire length 5 or 8 ft. You must have gotten the 5.Probably, just make a good, soldered mechanical connection. But I'm surprised your cable isn't long enough. I used my MTXL in my 1g and currently in my 2g and have ample length, even when the WB is in the front o2. Is it because of the different with the MTXL using LSU4.2 and the MTXL Plus using LSU4.9? That makes me wonder because I was thinking of upgrading to the 4.9 this year :O
Same place too, up high on the pillar.
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I’m just an idiot and was trying to route it like my UEGO that had 3x the cable length. Finished the install for the most part just have to put the ground to the ECU nowProbably, just make a good, soldered mechanical connection. But I'm surprised your cable isn't long enough.
I'd just double check before you ground to the ECU, especially the sensor ground, if that's what you're referring to. I thought the MTXL procedure was to have a clean ground only. I ground near the ECU at the center console frame.I’m just an idiot and was trying to route it like my UEGO that had 3x the cable length. Finished the install for the most part just have to put the ground to the ECU now
It actually stated to ground it to the battery. I went off of the LC1 instructions from ecmlink and used pin 92.I'd just double check before you ground to the ECU, especially the sensor ground, if that's what you're referring to. I thought the MTXL procedure was to have a clean ground only. I ground near the ECU at the center console frame.
I usually use non insulated butt connectors and heat shrink tubing but I didn’t have to extend the wiresIf you must or insist on splicing, mount a small terminal block and terminate the wires there. This is a snapshot of the first one I see on Amazon. Anything similar to this.
Here's the Ecm link recommend install which recommended a chassis ground lug. Easy sauce. HahaIt actually stated to ground it to the battery. I went off of the LC1 instructions from ecmlink and used pin 92.
Is your switchpoint 2.35v?
I usually use non insulated butt connectors and heat shrink tubing but I didn’t have to extend the wires
I'd avoid the sensor ground. The mtxl instructions above are preferable. Don't mess with the sensor ground for a high current device like a widebandIt actually stated to ground it to the battery. I went off of the LC1 instructions from ecmlink and used pin 92.
Is your switchpoint 2.35v?
I usually use non insulated butt connectors and heat shrink tubing but I didn’t have to extend the wires
Thanks for my new title... Marty change my membership type to this!Thanks to @enriquez2000 the rotary tool sensai and @DreamChaser7 for the bit recommendation I'm knocking out this paint removal big time. Still takes time to get all the little bits and in the crevices but boy howdy I'm going to get there with the dang dremel
Nothing too special really. I like to install the injectors into the rail first. Be sure to lightly lube the o-rings and after install make sure they can be twisted in the rail and nothing is binding. Then, I install the lower insulators into the head and slowly lower the rail/injectors into position. After torquing the bolts I then make sure the injectors will twist/spin. They should be snug but not tight or binding up.Any of you fine gentlemen have any recommendations for things to do prior to me just slapping in the fuel rail and injectors? Any tips or quirks? Because every time I think something easy to install will be easy there is always something I stumble upon that makes me pump the brakes.
1 trick i have used for years is dielectric grease as my lube on sealsNothing too special really. I like to install the injectors into the rail first. Be sure to lightly lube the o-rings and after install make sure they can be twisted in the rail and nothing is binding. Then, I install the lower insulators into the head and slowly lower the rail/injectors into position. After torquing the bolts I then make sure the injectors will twist/spin. They should be snug but not tight or binding up.
Here's the Ecm link recommend install which recommended a chassis ground lug. Easy sauce. Haha
Interesting I was going off the LC1 write up. I can switch the ground around but it seemed to work fine. Thanks guysI'd avoid the sensor ground. The mtxl instructions above are preferable. Don't mess with the sensor ground for a high current device like a wideband
My tuner has me ground my gauge to the same ground as the ECU is , which is what Curt is doing. It helps make the gauge and the ECU read the same. I followed his instructions and my gauge and ECMlink matched up, but they didn't before I grounded the gauge at the same point as the ECU. Just a tip to pass on that has already been mentioned.Interesting I was going off the LC1 write up. I can switch the ground around but it seemed to work fine. Thanks guys
Both the chassis and that sensor ground are grounds, yes, so it would work. Right now.Interesting I was going off the LC1 write up. I can switch the ground around but it seemed to work fine. Thanks guys
So I'm stuck with some mismatched length and poorly cut studs for where the turbo bolts to the manifold so now I need to source these weirdly dimensioned studs or find one that is slightly larger so I can drill and tap the hole. Oh and the thread pitch on these studs is 1.5 so they are coarse
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Man you'r giving me flashbacks I'm sure there's about 5 somewhere on the road in my city that i gave up on trying to get. I have like 10 as spares for this reasonSome people have issues with the spacers falling out of place while they are installing the rail. Once they fall under the intake manifold they are a pain to find.
Some tape, or adhesive to hold them in place while you get the injectors into the insulators helps.
If you use tape remember to remove it one you get the bolts started and don't over torque them.