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Put it in the dishwasher....
 
Went a little crazy. I've been researching putting together toe and control arms for the Talon. Even though the car is far from being done, I ordered all the pieces. All in all I spent less than $300 for all the parts. Once I see where my funds are at I'm going to order an ATE and maybe see about getting some poly to pour my own rear sub-frame mounts since no one makes any anymore. I'd like to make some solids, but am not set up for that.
 
Went a little crazy. I've been researching putting together toe and control arms for the Talon. Even though the car is far from being done, I ordered all the pieces. All in all I spent less than $300 for all the parts. Once I see where my funds are at I'm going to order an ATE and maybe see about getting some poly to pour my own rear sub-frame mounts since no one makes any anymore. I'd like to make some solids, but am not set up for that.
Making your own poly is pretty easy.. i made my own for my trans side until I got a better one from boostedfab.

As a matter of fact if you reach out to them they may do some solid bushings for subframe.

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Went a little crazy. I've been researching putting together toe and control arms for the Talon. Even though the car is far from being done, I ordered all the pieces. All in all I spent less than $300 for all the parts. Once I see where my funds are at I'm going to order an ATE and maybe see about getting some poly to pour my own rear sub-frame mounts since no one makes any anymore. I'd like to make some solids, but am not set up for that.
Also did you check here... jnz usually stays up on whats in stock

 
Yeah. I got a couple boosted fab parts and plan on a few more. He's actually semi-local to me.
I'll probably do something similar to what you did there with my sub-frame bushings while I have the sub-frame dropped to clean it all up. I found old posts and information for when they were available that they were 85 durometer.

I could also see if I could find steel, or even aluminum, slugs that are the proper diameter and just drill the center hole if I really wanted to.

Also did you check here... jnz usually stays up on whats in stock

I think I looked at that yesterday. They only thing that would suck is I don't need the mustache bar bushings since I have a boosted fab bar. I might still go with that if necessary.
 
Nothing physical to it, all thought. I'll remove the valve springs tomorrow..

Although I'm nowhere near needing fluids yet (waiting in queue for rotating assembly balancing), trying to think ahead to driveline fluids.

68hta v3, stock trans, xfer, and LSD diff

Originally was going to do MT90 in the trans since I've used it for years but wondering if I should go up to 75w140. For xfer case and rear diff was considering lightweight shockproof. Heavyweight was in it already but I honestly don't think it's necessary. Top people say yes, top people say no due to waxiness and tendency to be flung to case and not drain well. I think I read that heat transfer is also poor compared to regular 75w140 or 80w140.

Under my ownership, car will likely never see a dragstrip. It's just a cruiser and sometimes bruiser. Sustained high speed will be less than 80mph.

Also have been reading 75w140NS in the diff, and 75w140 in the xfer.

Honestly can't make up my mind.
 
Nothing physical to it, all thought. I'll remove the valve springs tomorrow..

Although I'm nowhere near needing fluids yet (waiting in queue for rotating assembly balancing), trying to think ahead to driveline fluids.

68hta v3, stock trans, xfer, and LSD diff

Originally was going to do MT90 in the trans since I've used it for years but wondering if I should go up to 75w140. For xfer case and rear diff was considering lightweight shockproof. Heavyweight was in it already but I honestly don't think it's necessary. Top people say yes, top people say no due to waxiness and tendency to be flung to case and not drain well. I think I read that heat transfer is also poor compared to regular 75w140 or 80w140.

Under my ownership, car will likely never see a dragstrip. It's just a cruiser and sometimes bruiser. Sustained high speed will be less than 80mph.

Also have been reading 75w140NS in the diff, and 75w140 in the xfer.

Honestly can't make up my mind.
In my xfer and diff I just use amsoil synthetic 75w90... i dont buy into needing thicker than that in there
 
Finally took the measurement on the hydraulic tensioner and the average of the measurements was 3.5mm so I'm 0.3mm under the minimum acceptable range. Probably going to reset the tensioner system and do it based off the pin AND the micrometers.
 
I bet your tensioner ends up in about the 7 o-clock position :cool: (just a guess, lets see how close it was).
 
Ignore the rust 😩 Thinking about getting some eastwood rust encapsulator plus to handle that

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I can highly recommend the platinum as that’s what I used for the entire underside before prime and paint.
 
Well today i drove to tre and chatted with my good friend for over 20 years now when he built my first transmission. We talked about life and transmissions, i to see what he was working, on and arranged to drop off the transmission this summer for some work to do it. We had a great talk about parts and the neat gear set, i filled him in on the thread here, and just talked, great guy. So looking foward to getting it to him hes only 15 minutes away, he said get it to him and hell take care of the rest, always good to chat with him, and see the shop with all those drivetrain parts, Its like christmas in there.
 
Also did you check here... jnz usually stays up on whats in stock

They’ve been discontinued for years so it might not be updated.

I realized that I don’t have the time to do what I want to this car and I’d hate to let it sit or crush it. I haven’t washed or done much to it if anyone needs a surface rust chassis for a racecar.

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. . . and that I should focus everything on this car. RatRice
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Did this. So stoked.

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Got it all torqued in and loctited(Crank bolts) and ready to rock. On my next day off I'll get the trans stabbed in, everything topped with fluids, and ready to rock 'n' roll, bleed the slave too.

I realized that I don’t have the time to do what I want to this car and I’d hate to let it sit or crush it. I haven’t washed or done much to it if anyone needs a surface rust chassis for a racecar.

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Do the interior electronics work like auto seatbelts and fan controls/etc?

I'm sorely tempted, man. I ain't skurred of surface rust and this shell is just a little too much of a basket case.
 
Alright where in the FSM are the tourqe specs for this. I've searched almost every section. Half tempted to just leave it off at this point since I was already considering deleting the power steering.

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Did this. So stoked.

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Got it all torqued in and loctited(Crank bolts) and ready to rock. On my next day off I'll get the trans stabbed in, everything topped with fluids, and ready to rock 'n' roll, bleed the slave too.




Do the interior electronics work like auto seatbelts and fan controls/etc?

I'm sorely tempted, man. I ain't skurred of surface rust and this shell is just a little too much of a run basket case.
I’d have to hook up a battery and find out and take some better pictures.
 
Alright where in the FSM are the tourqe specs for this. I've searched almost every section. Half tempted to just leave it off at this point since I was already considering deleting the power steering.

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4 ugga duggas

18-24 ft pounds

Power Steering Pump Mounting Bracket to Engine Mount Bracket
M8 x 1.25 20 12 ----- 18-24
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Thank you I appreciate it! Still wanting to just get rid of the power steering stuff and clean up the engine bay but we will see.
I trim mine for exhaust manifold bolt ease

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Well it took all day with paint stripper and a steel brush aaaannnndd I only got most of it...pretty bummed but this stuff is some serious paint. It's that rubbery/vinyl kind. May try again or just throw it on because I have no idea how I'm going to get in where it goes over the front cam caps.

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Well it took all day with paint stripper and a steel brush aaaannnndd I only got most of it...pretty bummed but this stuff is some serious paint. It's that rubbery/vinyl kind. May try again or just throw it on because I have no idea how I'm going to get in where it goes over the front cam caps.

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Dremmel with wire wheel?
 
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