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Street Build ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

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Speaking of PC done right, I picked up the latest work from Rich - This is so cool
IMG_6965.jpeg


Later you will see more of this billet plug cover - It is crazy good. The top surface of the grill is polished aluminum with clear on top, like the letters on the valve cover. Inside edges of the grill are matching red, and the rest is sparkle silver, matching the other silver things, like the PS pump, water pipe, water neck, and TB tin.
IMG_6964.jpeg
 
I’ll just put that 20g right here while we wait for an intake manifold gasket, and some new injector clips.

IMG_6969.jpeg

I should find some 6mm studs for the oil drain. Its always a PITA to line up the gasket and bolts.

I suppose I can finally update the vehicle profile - 20G is installed 🤤
 
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Did you the pursue the cyclone manifold? I see you have your IM done in black which may have been in the works before talking about it last time.

edit: "While you're at it", you should pull that alternator out and put in a Saturn unit.
 
Did you the pursue the cyclone manifold? I see you have your IM done in black which may have been in the works before talking about it last time.

edit: "While you're at it", you should pull that alternator out and put in a Saturn unit.
In progress - not in a hurry.

I have had for a while, 2 black PC’d intake manifolds, but the prep work wasn’t great before the PC, like 15 years ago. This one does not have an MDP bolted on it.
 
Now the work list - been a while since I've had a list.

1. Install idler pulley - Done
2. Final Scrape/Clean block deck for head gasket - Done
*. Tap and Die clean cam cap bolts and threads - Done
*. Remove studs for 1G CAS and manifold bracket, use bolts - Done
3. Bolt Intake manifold to new head - Done
IMG_6986.jpeg

*. Install EGR valve with blockoff plate, Brake Booster port and MAP sensor - Done
4. Fiber head gasket install on block with dowels - Done
IMG_6990.jpeg

*. Washer/Nut clearance to the spring seat shims are very close on 12mm studs 1,2,9, and 10. It is necessary to keep the studs loose and slide washers down and thread the nuts on the stud all the way, then use the deflection tolerance of the loose stud to get the nut past the spring shims. Then I was able to hand tighten the studs all the way in before torquing down the nuts - Done
IMG_6994.jpeg

5. Install head and manifold with ARP head studs - torque to spec with ARP grease - center out sequence to 30,65 and finally 90 ft lb - Done
73586924118__4186C8DC-6CEC-4C32-A732-F16BF3DC7926.jpeg

*. I did decide to use a super thin smear of permatex on the stock oil pressure regulator before installation - Done
73586682772__3455FD8C-801B-4EC2-B809-AFBF836962AD.jpeg


*. Fill the filter with oil
IMG_7003.jpeg

*. Replace the dipstick o-ring - Done
IMG_7004.jpeg

6. Change Oil/Filter - Done
*. Use favorite tool to remove stuck cam caps - Done
IMG_7007.jpeg

7. Populate head with lifters, rollers, and cams - Done
IMG_7009.jpeg

8. Pump clean oil through the turbo supply line and reconnect to turbo - Done
*. Say some choice curse words when you remember you forgot to bolt up rear timing covers before putting in the cams - Done
*. Bolt up exhaust side rear timing cover - Done
*. remove Intake CAM - Done
*. Bolt up intake side rear timing cover - Done
*. install Intake CAM - Done
IMG_7015.jpeg

9. Install valve cover gasket - Done
IMG_7013.jpeg

*. Plug PCV port, Chase all threads, Fit Oil Cap, RTV spots, and...
*. Install Valve cover - Done
*. Install CAM sensor housing - done

IMG_7017.jpeg

10. Install water neck/thermostat and new temp sensor - Done
11. Prime the oil pump - check for leaks - and install and tenson timing belt - Done
12. Install timing covers, AC belt tension-er, crank and water pump pulley's, and right side motor mount - Done
IMG_7023.jpeg

IMG_7022.jpeg

13. Install o2 sensor - Done
14. Install exhaust manifold, and torque turbo manifold ARP bolts to spec - Done
15. Make down-pipe hangar bolts tight, check for clearances - Done
16. Install manifold heat shields
- Done

IMG_7026.jpeg

17. Install throttle body, and intake piping
18. Install fuel rail and transistor pack
19. Hook up vacuum hoses, and check for boost leaks
20. Replace injector clips, and clean up engine wiring harness
21. Install radiator and intake.
22. Fill with coolant, and crank for oil pressure and check for leaks again
23. Clean, gap and install spark plugs - connect remaining sensors, and fire.
 
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Personal experience. I did it because I read about the big dogs doing it but missed the part where these guys were doing it to MLS. I remember spraying it and it just didn't seem correct, like some of it absorbed into the gasket - which thinking back now was probably it's demise. But whatever send it and it's too late anyways.
I got idle time out of the car after doing it, and it was smoking bad. After an hour of denial I pulled the head off. Cleaning off the copper spray and gasket material was a nightmare. I put it all back together without copper spray and it was perfect. Literally nothing was different about the assembly aside of the spray.

I use copper on all exhaust metal gaskets. Love the stuff actually. But any fiber or composite gasket I will never consider it.

YMMV
 
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Personal experience. I did it because I read about the big dogs doing it but missed the part where these guys were doing it to MLS. I remember spraying it and it just didn't seem correct, like some of it absorbed into the gasket - which thinking back now was probably it's demise. But whatever send it and it's too late anyways.
I got idle time out of the car after doing it, and it was smoking bad. After an hour of denial I pulled the head off. Cleaning off the copper spray and gasket material was a nightmare. I put it all back together without copper spray and it was perfect. Literally nothing was different about the assembly aside of the spray.

I use copper on all exhaust metal gaskets. Love the stuff actually. But any fiber or composite gasket I will never consider it.

YMMV
This had an MLS HG, but today we are going to try the Mitsu fiber gasket - and I might as well try it without copper spray and see if it seals.
 
Jesus man, that’s insane. But I admit I have been very curious how the inside of the GM Maps look.
I’m wondering if this is what they are supposed to look like. The sensor is in the square box filled with epoxy, the rest of this sensor is empty space with 3 wires from the actual sensor to a plug.

I dunno - I call shiningans - I think this is a cheap knockoff
 
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