EVOscan Blackbox ECU from 98-99 DSM install to my 96 GST

[ChristianEclipseAuto]

So just to be sure How and in which order do I switch these plugs wires. What is my current and What does it need to be like to work? I do understand the pin change in the ecu hardness But not the change order in the sparkplugwires. Could you tell me which order it should be like and How it is today ?

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[DSMPT]

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[ChristianEclipseAuto]

i am so sorry but I still dont get it.

Call me stupid its okay but when I look on the could there is 1-2-3-4 plugs from the coil going to the valvecover at it goes 1-1 , 2-4, 3-2 and 4-3 at the moment on the valvecover.

What do I need to switch when I look at the valve cover ?

 

[DSMPT]

The 1st pic is 4123 (Now you have it like this). The 2nd pic is 3214. Basically you change the position of 3↔4 and 1↔2.

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[ChristianEclipseAuto]

I finally Got it now. Thanks!

 

[KCDsmDude]

The 4-1 relate to the cylinders, with 4 being the farther to the LEFT in the pic, or closest to passenger. So looking at the car the cylinders go 4,3,2,1 LEFT TO RIGHT.

The 4123 is the stock wiring ORDER of those cylinders as it appears on the ignition coil (the thing where all the yellow wires are plugged into). If you look at that from left to right, the furthest left wire goes to cylinder 4. The one next to that goes to cylinder one (the cylinder closest to the drivers side).

The 3214 is changing the sequence of LEFT TO RIGHT on the ignition coils. So you can pull the wires off that, take the spark plug wire coming from cylinder 3, and put it on the ignition coil all the way to the left.

 

[ChristianEclipseAuto]

The 4-1 relate to the cylinders, with 4 being the farther to the LEFT in the pic, or closest to passenger. So looking at the car the cylinders go 4,3,2,1 LEFT TO RIGHT.

The 4123 is the stock wiring ORDER of those cylinders as it appears on the ignition coil (the thing where all the yellow wires are plugged into). If you look at that from left to right, the furthest left wire goes to cylinder 4. The one next to that goes to cylinder one (the cylinder closest to the drivers side).

The 3214 is changing the sequence of LEFT TO RIGHT on the ignition coils. So you can pull the wires off that, take the spark plug wire coming from cylinder 3, and put it on the ignition coil all the way to the left.

Thanks so much. I have now figured it out. I cant wait to install the blackbox and try fire it up

 

[ChristianEclipseAuto]

Have you already run the black box on your Eclipse? If you don't see any issue, then you don't need to do anything. You have to check it first, before make any changes.

And if you want it stock-ish, I am wondering how come you are planning to swap the ECU, since the modifications are only a 16g w/ 750cc injectors. If I were you, I would also consider to go with the original ECU and some piggyback. Probably that can be your option, too.

Hi again. I Think this might be the option, going for a piggyback setup since the Blackbox ecu swapping issues might Will accour. What type Can I buy here and is it and easy install ?

 

[DSMPT]

Hi again. I Think this might be the option, going for a piggyback setup since the Blackbox ecu swapping issues might Will accour. What type Can I buy here and is it and easy install ?

The easiest way would probably be by using a common air flow signal converter, such as Apexi S-AFC series (with blue screen or newer), MAF-T, Blitz R-Fit, GReddy E-Manage Ultimate etc with a wideband gauge. But your injector is 750cc, Apexi S-AFC (S-AFC, S-AFC2 or AFC Neo), Blitz R-Fit would work with up to approxi 700cc injectors (50%). So if you want to use the 750cc or bigger, it's better to look for a MAF-T or E-Manage Ultimate or simply go with ECMLink or standalone ECU. (P.S Older AFC with 1 knob or 5 knobs and blue box E-Manage can convert only up to 30%, so those are not for your case)
Those devices are everywhere, I believe you can find one somewhere in Europe (Except the MAF-T). Installation wouldn't be difficult. If you know how to install car audio, probably you can install it by yourself.

 

[ChristianEclipseAuto]

The easiest way would probably be by using a common air flow signal converter, such as Apexi S-AFC series (with blue screen or newer), MAF-T, Blitz R-Fit, GReddy E-Manage Ultimate etc with a wideband gauge. But your injector is 750cc, Apexi S-AFC (S-AFC, S-AFC2 or AFC Neo), Blitz R-Fit would work with up to approxi 700cc injectors (50%). So if you want to use the 750cc or bigger, it's better to look for a MAF-T or E-Manage Ultimate or simply go with ECMLink or standalone ECU. (P.S Older AFC with 1 knob or 5 knobs and blue box E-Manage can convert only up to 30%, so those are not for your case)
Those devices are everywhere, I believe you can find one somewhere in Europe (Except the MAF-T). Installation wouldn't be difficult. If you know how to install car audio, probably you can install it by yourself.

Thanks. I have not bought the injectors yet, But I do bought a Big t-28 and getting a custom smic for it there is almost finished. So Maybe 650 or 550 would be fine with a t-28 turbo ? I have looked at the SAFC on extremepsi, that is kind of expensive, so Maybe I need to find someone who Can sell it to me used

 

[pauleyman]

Thanks. I have not bought the injectors yet, But I do bought a Big t-28 and getting a custom smic for it there is almost finished. So Maybe 650 or 550 would be fine with a t-28 turbo ? I have looked at the SAFC on extremepsi, that is kind of expensive, so Maybe I need to find someone who Can sell it to me used

SAFC is expensive?
That is relative I suppose.
Good. Fast. Cheap. Pick two.

Maybe apex fixed it but I doubt it. any piggy back that is lying to the ECU about things to adjust airflow will also affect the timing tables. I'm not a fan. If you're not sure what these devices do and how I would suggest some research.
For any mod you choose it is important that you understand your goals first, THEN choose the mod.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/project-management-and-building-a-dsm.421705/

You are adding a larger turbocharger and intercooler....so you want more fuel? right?
There are many methods to do this as described above but you need to know what each one does and pros/cons of each. Money, technical skill, ease of use all factor in.
If I had to guess you want a "set it and forget it" sort of solution. It has been my experience piggybacks do not do this well as they are simply lying to the ECU to gain a desired result. What happens when the real numbers change? The settings typically need to change along with them.
Read my post and it may help you come to an understanding of a systematic way to approach modification.

 

[ChristianEclipseAuto]

SAFC is expensive?
That is relative I suppose.
Good. Fast. Cheap. Pick two.

Maybe apex fixed it but I doubt it. any piggy back that is lying to the ECU about things to adjust airflow will also affect the timing tables. I'm not a fan. If you're not sure what these devices do and how I would suggest some research.
For any mod you choose it is important that you understand your goals first, THEN choose the mod.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/project-management-and-building-a-dsm.421705/

You are adding a larger turbocharger and intercooler....so you want more fuel? right?
There are many methods to do this as described above but you need to know what each one does and pros/cons of each. Money, technical skill, ease of use all factor in.
If I had to guess you want a "set it and forget it" sort of solution. It has been my experience piggybacks do not do this well as they are simply lying to the ECU to gain a desired result. What happens when the real numbers change? The settings typically need to change along with them.
Read my post and it may help you come to an understanding of a systematic way to approach modification.

Thanks. I am running it street legal as possible due to the fact that it is not allowed to take the ecu out and put a standalone in. The Cops are allowed to take the car and make Mitsubishi dealer it legal again with new ecu (which cannot be bought) on the spot, if they cant, they are allowed to crush the car. “It's no joke”

But with a black box (still the orignal ecu) Tune with tactrix and ecuflash (which I think wont work because mine is the jap spec version, a piggyback with the original ecu still in the car was my option. I have tactrix and Blackbox on my shelf. But i am running the ecu from Japan.

I live in Denmark where the rules are crazy. So when my t-25 broke down on me, i read that the t28 was a good swap option. So I bought that and it is on its Way.

Just want it street legal with the t-28 and run good and fast as it used to with the t-25.

 

[pauleyman]

you should verify if your black box is tunable if that is something you want to pursue. How would they know something isn't the original ECU? 95 ECU bolts into the same place and except for the case doesn't look out of place.

 

[ChristianEclipseAuto]

you should verify if your black box is tunable if that is something you want to pursue. How would they know something isn't the original ECU? 95 ECU bolts into the same place and except for the case doesn't look out of place.

I do have a 96 ecu (non eprom) installed now, and no they do not know if it is the Black box or the regular 96 ecu. But I cant run dsmlink for example, because they Will open up the ecu to see of it is original. But some say i cant run the blackbox ecu. But Maybe I should try install it too see What happens

 

[pauleyman]

Cops will take the time to remove and open an ecu???
Wow.

 

[ChristianEclipseAuto]

Cops will take the time to remove and open an ecu???
Wow.

Yes! If they cant open it, they Will send it to Mitsubishi, get it open and it has to get redone. If you dont believe me, you Can look up the danish rules. They have gone nuts But Imma go with the Black box to see if it Can run. I could be lucky

 

[pauleyman]

I believe you.

 

[DSMPT]

Maybe apex fixed it but I doubt it. any piggy back that is lying to the ECU about things to adjust airflow will also affect the timing tables.

This is correct. Since those things change the air flow signal "before" ECU, usually when goes + side in AFC, ECU would pull ignition timing. When goes - side, ECU would advance ignition timing.
Apexi used to sell ITC (Ignition timing converter) that combine with AFC, too. It was not common in DSM world though.
Many people misunderstand about AFC. AFC is "air flow converter", not to control injectors directly. Basically not designed for heavily modded/high boosted cars and it's not ideal. Usually it's just used for filling the gap when you make small change. Maxing out the conversion range in AFC is not the ideal way to use.

@ChristianEclipseAuto In case if you go with a piggyback. (I don't know well about your country's regulation. With a piggyback, you still need to modify ECU wiring. I am not sure if it's ok in your case)
If you don't care much about a little difference on ignition timing and won't boost that high, just go SAFC with 510 or 560 from EVOs injectors, then just adjust the AFR by seeing a wideband gauge. The car would probably run just fine if your car doesn't have any mechanical/electrical issue.
If you care about the ignition timing and still want a piggyback for some reason, maybe better to consider to go the E-Manage Ultimate as I mentioned above. This is still a piggyback but it would allow you to adjust the fuel without affecting the ignition timing and has much more features. It's like between the SAFC and ECMLink. But it would cost much more than SAFC (you can probably buy ECMLink with the same money) and you would probably need much more knowledge about this kind of things.

I have looked at the SAFC on extremepsi, that is kind of expensive

Because you checked a new unit. Look for a used unit.

 

[ChristianEclipseAuto]

This is correct. Since those things change the air flow signal "before" ECU, usually when goes + side in AFC, ECU would pull ignition timing. When goes - side, ECU would advance ignition timing.
Apexi used to sell ITC (Ignition timing converter) that combine with AFC, too. It was not common in DSM world though.
Many people misunderstand about AFC. AFC is "air flow converter", not to control injectors directly. Basically not designed for heavily modded/high boosted cars and it's not ideal. Usually it's just used for filling the gap when you make small change. Maxing out the conversion range in AFC is not the ideal way to use.

@ChristianEclipseAuto In case if you go with a piggyback. (I don't know well about your country's regulation. With a piggyback, you still need to modify ECU wiring. I am not sure if it's ok in your case)
If you don't care much about a little difference on ignition timing and won't boost that high, just go SAFC with 510 or 560 from EVOs injectors, then just adjust the AFR by seeing a wideband gauge. The car would probably run just fine if your car doesn't have any mechanical/electrical issue.
If you care about the ignition timing and still want a piggyback for some reason, maybe better to consider to go the E-Manage Ultimate as I mentioned above. This is still a piggyback but it would allow you to adjust the fuel without affecting the ignition timing and has much more features. It's like between the SAFC and ECMLink. But it would cost much more than SAFC (you can probably buy ECMLink with the same money) and you would probably need much more knowledge about this kind of things.


Because you checked a new unit. Look for a used unit.

Thanks a lot

 

[ChristianEclipseAuto]

This is correct. Since those things change the air flow signal "before" ECU, usually when goes + side in AFC, ECU would pull ignition timing. When goes - side, ECU would advance ignition timing.
Apexi used to sell ITC (Ignition timing converter) that combine with AFC, too. It was not common in DSM world though.
Many people misunderstand about AFC. AFC is "air flow converter", not to control injectors directly. Basically not designed for heavily modded/high boosted cars and it's not ideal. Usually it's just used for filling the gap when you make small change. Maxing out the conversion range in AFC is not the ideal way to use.

@ChristianEclipseAuto In case if you go with a piggyback. (I don't know well about your country's regulation. With a piggyback, you still need to modify ECU wiring. I am not sure if it's ok in your case)
If you don't care much about a little difference on ignition timing and won't boost that high, just go SAFC with 510 or 560 from EVOs injectors, then just adjust the AFR by seeing a wideband gauge. The car would probably run just fine if your car doesn't have any mechanical/electrical issue.
If you care about the ignition timing and still want a piggyback for some reason, maybe better to consider to go the E-Manage Ultimate as I mentioned above. This is still a piggyback but it would allow you to adjust the fuel without affecting the ignition timing and has much more features. It's like between the SAFC and ECMLink. But it would cost much more than SAFC (you can probably buy ECMLink with the same money) and you would probably need much more knowledge about this kind of things.


Because you checked a new unit. Look for a used unit.

Thanks a lot. I am only installing a t-28 and 550 injectors, because i could not find the t-25 anywhere, and it has too look stuck. There is a guy here in Europe who has sold me the apexi SAFC for 80$ Yesterday. I Will start with that. I have looked for the greddy e manage you send me? I cant find any in Europe though Any site you could recommend buying it from in the us ?

 

[ChristianEclipseAuto]

Those pins may not be a big deal for running even if you don't have (It's just you may have less input/output for something that you would want to install later). I think you can make it by yourself if you need.
I guess the two wires from the high temp sensor are the ones you should know which pin they go to. I am not sure if those wires are hooked up to ECU like the rear O2 sensor or differently.

IIRC, the guy in Japan told me something like, the first startup is no problem but after 20-30min of idle time or driving, the high temp light always comes up and then the engine would start to stall, even if he resets the ECU, it keeps doing the same.

Hi I went Yesterday to do the blackbox swap on my “jdm” japanese version Eclipse. And the car started and drove fine. It did not stall out at all. No CEL. Even after
45 min of driving it around, city and highway.

The only thing I experience was that hesitation it has in the start of the accellation and cruising. I did not swap the injectors wires yet. So i am trying to do that this week.