Anfurnyy
Supporting Member
- 672
- 785
- Jul 4, 2020
-
Rapid City,
South_Dakota
I know there's about 5 thousand posts about this but im kind of at my wits end and out of options and every post i read is pretty much all conflicting information. Ive read just about everything can find, and watched all the videos if Kurts (bastarddsm) explanations and recommendations, etc and I cannot get this setup to disengage completely to shift at high rpms without grinding. Im shifting at around 9k rpm, car is making PROBABLY 750+whp, and 550+ft/lbs
I have reached out to Tim Zimmer through his site on recommendations, and waiting on reply.
Clutch setup CURRENTLY is:
ACT 2900
ACT Solid Hub Disk
ACT Streetlite flywheel
Comp Clutch forged clutch fork
New OEM TOB and clip
Pivot ball is shimmed with 2 washers (i think about 3 mm?)
2g OEM slave cylinder (with speed bleeder), .812"
White Shed Speed Wilwood Master cylinder .700" bore
Welded Pedal assembly
OEM Clutch Hardline, with shorter braided steel slave line
White Shed Speed Billet Shifter mounts
The car has been through:
2 1g OEM slaves
1 2g OEM slave (currently installed)
2 OEM Master cylinders
1 Wildwood master cylinder (currently installed)
1 OEM hard-line (currently installed)
1 OEM braided steel from Master to Slave
1 act 6 puck sprung (RIP)
1 act 6 puck solid disk (RIP)
Countless bleeding sessions, manual 2 person, vacuum bled, 2 sets of speed bleeders, adjusted the master rod every way to Sunday.
Both the Sprung and Solid Hub disks have yeeted all the material off the disks, Pressure plate and flywheel look damn near perfect.
I have NOT:
Pulled pressure plate and test disengagement on a press with feeler gauges to measure for disengagement
ANY ideas on anything else that could be the problem or what else to try Besides just replacing the pressure plate? Is there another single disk setup that seems to work better for people at this level?
I have a QM 8 Leg Street setup that I about to just jump ship to to get around all these disengagement issues but also dont because i dont want to hurt the stock gearset faster.
I have reached out to Tim Zimmer through his site on recommendations, and waiting on reply.
Clutch setup CURRENTLY is:
ACT 2900
ACT Solid Hub Disk
ACT Streetlite flywheel
Comp Clutch forged clutch fork
New OEM TOB and clip
Pivot ball is shimmed with 2 washers (i think about 3 mm?)
2g OEM slave cylinder (with speed bleeder), .812"
White Shed Speed Wilwood Master cylinder .700" bore
Welded Pedal assembly
OEM Clutch Hardline, with shorter braided steel slave line
White Shed Speed Billet Shifter mounts
The car has been through:
2 1g OEM slaves
1 2g OEM slave (currently installed)
2 OEM Master cylinders
1 Wildwood master cylinder (currently installed)
1 OEM hard-line (currently installed)
1 OEM braided steel from Master to Slave
1 act 6 puck sprung (RIP)
1 act 6 puck solid disk (RIP)
Countless bleeding sessions, manual 2 person, vacuum bled, 2 sets of speed bleeders, adjusted the master rod every way to Sunday.
Both the Sprung and Solid Hub disks have yeeted all the material off the disks, Pressure plate and flywheel look damn near perfect.
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I have NOT:
Pulled pressure plate and test disengagement on a press with feeler gauges to measure for disengagement
ANY ideas on anything else that could be the problem or what else to try Besides just replacing the pressure plate? Is there another single disk setup that seems to work better for people at this level?
I have a QM 8 Leg Street setup that I about to just jump ship to to get around all these disengagement issues but also dont because i dont want to hurt the stock gearset faster.