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What did you do to your DSM today?

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DreamChaser7 said:
See I’m like you, I’d be so paranoid after all these years that I would mess something up, I’d be redoing it all even if it meant getting a new gasket, LOL.
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The bite of the gasket into the head would then cause you additional paranoia to the point where you'd think you'd need to resurface the head.
 
Me and my mechanic discovered why cylinder 2 had low compression. We also notice a bolt missing from the valve cover around that area. “Yea it runs good just needs an alternator” -Seller
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Correcting some absurdly bad orange rtv job on the oil pan (some of it was in the pan....couple pieces were stuck to the oil pickup screen 😑). Trying out a custom made rubber gasket for it, it better work LOL.

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That's pretty cool dude. Did you cut it yourself? Where did you source the material if so.

It looks like the gaskets I make for my bov and tb, you can get a 4x4"ish square of it at Homedepot Plumbing Racing.
 
Stapl3 said:
That's pretty cool dude. Did you cut it yourself? Where did you source the material if so.

It looks like the gaskets I make for my bov and tb, you can get a 4x4"ish square of it at Homedepot Plumbing Racing.
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Dude on Facebook sells them. Makes the auto trans pan gaskets too. He has a website now too but I forgot it.
 
cswindel said:
I want that gasket so bad. I don't like RTV gasketing the whole oil pan. Does he do it for both 6 and 7 bolt?
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Yea I believe his company is "FiSH Racing" under Shaun Werning. He makes a bunch of different gaskets, and has the 6 and 7 bolt pan gasket.
 
enriquez2000 said:
Let us know how it seals. A good rtv job is what the factory recommends but does get tedious on cleanup
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First test yesterday (warmed up to operating temp, readjusted my idle in V3, ran it down the highway and back) yielded......no wet spots in the driveway, gasket looked very dry. As you could tell by the previous orange RTV mess, that previous gasket wasn't working. So far, so good. I'll report back updates as I get closer to retuning the ole bird.
 
Impish6 said:
Me and my mechanic discovered why cylinder 2 had low compression. We also notice a bolt missing from the valve cover around that area. “Yea it runs good just needs an alternator” -Seller
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Click to expand...
what caused that?
 
I posted a very long overdue update to my build thread! Over the past couple of weekends, I painted it, replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the injectors, and got it running again and driving again after sitting for a number of years!
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Making good progress on the engine but I always stop and stare at this mess...makes me feel like this is where the build will die. Got to go through the whole engine harness and make sure it's good to go for the ECMLink ECU. Was running off a Microtech ECU and I have no idea what the last person did. Makes me wonder how other harness are...aaaannnd I'll probably make myself go through everything

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cswindel said:
Making good progress on the engine but I always stop and stare at this mess...makes me feel like this is where the build will die. Got to go through the whole engine harness and make sure it's good to go for the ECMLink ECU. Was running off a Microtech ECU and I have no idea what the last person did. Makes me wonder how other harness are...aaaannnd I'll probably make myself go through everything

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Click to expand...
This is why I started deleting crap! Lol
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enriquez2000 said:
This is why I started deleting crap! Lol
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Click to expand...
Teach me your ways! Honestly I did consider that route and just deleting all the things that aren't really necessary to make the car run and/or function. Like power steering has been going back and forth in my mind. I am keeping A/C though!
 
cswindel said:
Teach me your ways! Honestly I did consider that route and just deleting all the things that aren't really necessary to make the car run and/or function. Like power steering has been going back and forth in my mind. I am keeping A/C though!
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Fix any prior repairs, replace any busted plugs with a Sheridan Engineering kit, and just get it running/driving for now.
 
if would 100% advise not to use that rubber pan gasket. you are not going to get even torque measurements and you will forsure dimple the pan.

the steel stamped pan isnt designed to apply pressure evenly across the pans surface, when you go to torque it all the pressure will be around the bolt holes and not across the surface of the pan

telling you now get rid of it, and get good rtv grey silicon, honda bond or toyota grey are the best.
 
chrysler kid said:
if would 100% advise not to use that rubber pan gasket. you are not going to get even torque measurements and you will forsure dimple the pan.

the steel stamped pan isnt designed to apply pressure evenly across the pans surface, when you go to torque it all the pressure will be around the bolt holes and not across the surface of the pan

telling you now get rid of it, and get good rtv grey silicon, honda bond or toyota grey are the best.
Click to expand...


Everyone who actually has one disagrees with you. These gaskets have been around for quite awhile now, and have had extensive testing. From a metric ton of DSM guys and even Evo guys. No issues at all.
 
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