Stapl3 said:

The Saturn alternator pigtail has a S wire that regulates voltage output. The idea is to mess with that wire.

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I understand where you are going. You want to trick it into overcharging so you run s wire ti where your lowest load output will be. I just dont think youll get to 15. The exciter will jusy stay active and keep pumping the 14.3ish.

You could also change pulley sizes to accomplish more output. Revving to 8 or 9k you often have to slow the alternator with pulleys.

Love innovation and ideas.. definitely let us know if you get it to 15!

Ordred new air filter, and some miscelllaneos stuff, deciding on what color for wheels maybe white, but powder coat may have to wait.

Sold all my other cars, down to just the Jetta and the Talon between me and my wife. So I'm forcing myself to revive my Talon. About to pull the engine and trans. Replacing the trans for a stock trans that hopefully shifts good while I repair my 90/92/95 Frankenstein transmission bearing and synchros. As well as undo years of me doing ridiculous things just to drive it and give it some good things.

Frankenstein set up all I know I have my tre build sheet i do have a 90 gear set

92AWDHX40 said:

Frankenstein set up all I know I have my tre build sheet i do have a 90 gear set

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Yeah its 90 1-4 95 5th and R. Some 92-94 shift rails and forks. Something like that, I'd have to look back in my info to see what all I did. Had some extra transmissions laying around and had help from Twicks/Tim to make the best of what I had.

92AWDHX40 said:

Worked on wiring again, today small stuff, preparing to start her up and let her idle a bit to reach temp, then i can start dialing in stuff. i have options i need to sort out so well see but im anxious to get it going.

You figure out the driveshaft issue rob, you said you were getting it balanced its all good.

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Is it FIRST START Victor. Don't idle it if so, let it run at around 1500-2000 for 15 minutes, give the rings time to seat while you look for leaks and such while she warms up.

My thermostat housing to head gaskets came in, so I got my housing all cleaned up, gasket surfaces cleaned and need to go to town and get a new 180* thermostat so that is all done and I can mark it with my Green paint marker. Not alot, but some progress.

Thank you to @pieceofcloth for generously sending me a timing tensioner bolt since I couldn’t find mine. Got my belt on and tensioned after three tries. Hopefully I’ll be back together by the end of the month.

@pieceofcloth is a very very generous guy and I, myself, can't thank him enough either!

Put a bit of old school love in

More wiring today and making a new list of things to do. Gonna start stripping the bay soon.

No not first start planning on finalizing the car and breaking in the engine. In a few weeks.

Finally got some decent weather so figured id get started putting everything back together. Tight fit but it's in. Quick question. Thermostat housing... gasket or rtv? Either or doesn't matter? I've seen both used but nothing really preferred over the other.

Gasket over RTV always.

depends how pitted the housing is. old car with some gouges in the mating surface i will skim the gasket with a thin layer of rtv

Received fitting for my radiator gonna plug her up and see how she does for me. Then go from there . I just want to get to Ohio and back home. I'll be happy after that

Almost there

92 awd laser said:

I have seen this on alot of sites with mustangs, hondas, volkswagen, ect... Although I've never seen one with DSM's and i thought maybe i would try it out and see if it sticks... I'll start off with what i did to mine. I cleaned up the motor bay and did a little wire tucking.

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Just trying to get my Eclipse mechanically sound so we can be my daily for now while I rebuild my Civic. I actually had to take the door hinges off and try to realign the doors so that the windows match up they had a gap in them. I had to rewire one of my pigtails for my side markers that wasn't working. My car's been sitting for 6 years so my tail lights weren't bolted in tight my back bumper doesn't fit because it's aftermarket. Just some little things here and there trying to get it so it can be a daily. But it was a beautiful 70° out and I love just sitting staring at this car like it is such a work of art and it's very beautiful I love The styling it's my favorite car ever!!! I don't care if she's rough looking this is the 5th 2G I have had and I absolutely love these cars and I know what I can make it look like

Took my turbo kit to work to disassemble for crack repairs and clean up for new gaskets. Got a wild thought of trying to figure out if I can turn this old n63 turbo heat shields into to something for my turbo. This manifold desperately needs heat shields. Rubber#2 is maybe 2" or less from my radiator. And my fan that's further away was suffering from the heat.

Also have this list that I'm pretty sure is gonna cost me more than a few bucks

b00zt3d spyd3r said:

Finally got some decent weather so figured id get started putting everything back together. Tight fit but it's in. Quick question. Thermostat housing... gasket or rtv? Either or doesn't matter? I've seen both used but nothing really preferred over the other.

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I'll usually give a super super thin skim of grey rtv on thermo gaskets just because of the surface imperfections. Best of both worlds

Got the oil pan mounted today after banging out the back bolt hole bulges to clear the arp main stud nuts. As small as this is, this has been a huge leap for me in finally starting to seal the engine up. I just want to thank everyone in this community for getting me through this build and learning all the little tricks for getting things just right. Namely want to mention @1990TSIAWDTALON and Josh @DSSA (JNZ Tuning)

Now I just need some helicoil for the two rear bolts of the pan because the last person to mount the original pan seems to have forced it over the stud nuts and ultimately ruined the threads

Hey, I am always here to try and help, thanks!
If the pan is on, you should be able to Heli-coil it and not have anything get into the engine, like shavings or such. The 2 VERY rear bolts go into the Rear Main Seal Housing though, so is it a block thread or the rear main seal threads (that are aluminum)?

It is the rear main seal threads (aluminum) unfortunately but kind of fortunate because that can always be swapped out down the road. However, I am going to try my hand at some helicoil and give it a go because it can't get much worse that it already is with those threads

You will be drilling the 2 holes out LARGER so that the helicoil will fit and have the original threads in it. Measure the depth of the hole with a small drill bit to see how deep it is, then mark your drill bit that you will use with masking tape at that depth from the tip of the bit. Wrap the tape around the bit so you know you are at the bottom and don't drill through it and into the crankcase. Just a tip, since you haven't used a helicoil before. It isn't hard, I am just pointing out that those holes are only so deep, and you don't want to make them any deeper.

Aaaannnd should be good to go! I'll put it in my build thread/tutorial series soon enough on my process but now the pan is officially mounted

Now clean that RTV off of that oil pan.
Good Job! Glad it all worked out and you can add it to your knowledge base!