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1G 1990 Dynatek ARC-2 installed/impression

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12 vs 12-1 on the standalones. What about the -1 is better if the home signal is still provided by a modified CAS?
12-1 allows the ecu to know where the engine is at any point during a rotation, allowing it to run simply off the crank sensor and used the cam sensor as a reference. You would still have a single tooth cam sensor. This way if the cam sensor were ever to fail, it would continue to run no issue.

I also use the same 2gb cam sensor for both crank and cam sensor, so lets say at an event I have my crank sensor fail, I can swap the cam sensor into the crank and still be able to run the car using Fueltech's diagnostic mode. Not sure if the other ecus can do this but I'd assume they'd have a similar option. This is not a fix for failed hardware but can keep you running in a pinch.
 
Try a boost a pump to power the stock coils. I've read somewhere that the factory PTU has a current limiter built in so you may not get anywhere with that. The factory coils are pretty tough though. I've never found a reason to use anything else. I know everyone is hyped on the COP stuff, but first time you need to hook a timing light up, or if you read plugs a lot, f*** that.
Have you done this? I asked about this many years ago and brads (afaik he made the arc-2) replied:

It shouldn't make a difference. Unless you turn up the BAP enough to kill the ARC-2. Then it won't run.

A CDI steps up the input voltage to a set target voltage to charge the capacitor. In the ARC-2 case, I think it is around 500V. If the input voltage is 12V, the capacitor charges to 500V. If the input voltage is 18V, the capacitor charges to 500V. The only real difference there would be that it charges quicker. It will be easier on the CDI, it just won't matter for the output. It WILL make a difference on the multisparks, where the charge time is shorter. It just won't matter for the primary spark, which is really the only one that matters for performance.
 
No, not the BAP into the ARC-2. ARC-2 into trash, and then BAP into stock coil/put.
I like that. So 14v always, you use the hobbs switch to get it to 18v under boost. Have you tried higher than 18? I remember my JMS booster would allow me to go up to 22v. I wonder what the limit the coils can take.
 
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