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Spyder Swapped out PTU module connector from car harness side

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Iluvboost189 said:
Car missing now i tried everything checked the plugs replaced coilpack
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Click to expand...
Hello,
Is that a original GST Eclipse or was it a GS?

I’ve got a 99’ Eclipse GS Spyder 4G64 N/T Automatic and doing a engine swap to a 4G63T w/Big 16 Turbo. I have a 99’ GST Automatic wiring harness and ran into problem where the plug on GS fuse box is male plug and GST Harness has male plug.

I’ve gotten ahold of a 2G 99’ GST fuse box, but on some threads people say to use the GS fuse box and not the GST fuse Box.

Can You, set a little light on this here before going to cut and splice things I don’t need too.

Thanks,
 
Upvote0
Here's a video. Since your engine is starting but misfiring you need to unplug the injectors so it doesn't start. And then check each cylinder for spark as shown in the video
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Upvote0
Racersedge said:
Hello,
Is that a original GST Eclipse or was it a GS?

I’ve got a 99’ Eclipse GS Spyder 4G64 N/T Automatic and doing a engine swap to a 4G63T w/Big 16 Turbo. I have a 99’ GST Automatic wiring harness and ran into problem where the plug on GS fuse box is male plug and GST Harness has male plug.

I’ve gotten ahold of a 2G 99’ GST fuse box, but on some threads people say to use the GS fuse box and not the GST fuse Box.

Can You, set a little light on this here before going to cut and splice things I don’t need too.

Thanks,
Click to expand...
Please don't hijack Iluvboost189's thread. He's still trying to solve his issues.
Your questions are best addressed in your own thread https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/99-spyder-gs-4g64-to-4g63t-swap.546316/
 
Upvote0
97egl said:
Here's a video. Since your engine is starting but misfiring you need to unplug the injectors so it doesn't start. And then check each cylinder for spark as shown in the video
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Click to expand...

Okay thanks I will do that once i get home from work, the car was running fine until l messed with the PTU wiring. I think the new connector might not be making contact with all the 7 pins.
 
Upvote0
Factory 2G 4G63 and 4G64 ignition wiring

1 1.25L/B (Coil 2-3)
2 BR/R (ECU 2-3)
3 1.25B Ground
4 W (Tach)
5 NC
6 2B/W (+12v)
7 B/L (ECU 1-4)
8 1.25B/W (Coil 1-4)

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Yours looks like it's done
1 B - L/B
2 W - BR
3 L - B/W (B?)
4 Y - W
5 NC
6 GR - B/W
7 BR - B/L
8 R - B/W

Pin 1 Would be the Black wire and it should come from the coil pack with battery voltage on it with the ignition on until the ECU starts charging the coil when it will drop low until the coil is fired. You should see about the same on pin 8 the Red wire.
 
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steve said:
Factory 2G 4G63 and 4G64 ignition wiring

1 1.25L/B (Coil 2-3)
2 BR/R (ECU 2-3)
3 1.25B Ground
4 W (Tach)
5 NC
6 2B/W (+12v)
7 B/L (ECU 1-4)
8 1.25B/W (Coil 1-4)
Click to expand...

So which wire do you think is wrong??
Pin 1 on mine is black and bright blue wire
Pin 2 brown red
Pin 3 black with white dots
Pin 4 white
Pin 5
Pin 6 black and white thickest wire
Pin 7 black and dull blue
Pin 8 black and white stripe
 
Upvote0
From here I couldn't guess. I suggest you continue with your multimeter since it looks like you have many splices in your wiring in that area.

There are three things I was hoping to do with my post. One was to clarify which pin was pin 1 on the PTU connector since it's often confused. Second was to use the standard wire colors. The factory wires are either a solid color or a solid color with a stripe, the dots don't count. They also come in different thicknesses and sadly here that is the only difference between two of them. Third was that using the circuit diagram will eliminate any possible wiring errors because you can find and measure each end of a wire using it. From the diagram you can see that thickest Black wire with White stripe on pin 6 is the switched battery voltage feeding the Coil, PTU, and noise suppression capacitor.

With the PTU disconnected all three of wires from the coils (1, 6, 8) should have battery voltage when the ignition is on. Pins 1 and 8 because the other side of each coil is connected to battery voltage and without any current running through the coil the voltage at each end will be the same.

I've not measured the voltage the ECU presents to the PTU to turn on the power transistors to charge a coil, so I can't tell you what you should see on pins 2 and 7. Perhaps someone who has can pipe in. Pin 3 is ground and pin 4 is the tach output for the ECU and gauge cluster.

Hope this helps.
 
Upvote0
It’s either not the issue
Is the issue but it’s not seen
Or a completely different issue that came up
You can do a resistance check from the other end of the harness to the connector to make sure it’s good.
Pin 8 has a repair
The black and white has a repair where it splits off.
What was the issue before it started doing this?
 
Upvote0
Jk's97DSM said:
It’s either not the issue
Is the issue but it’s not seen
Or a completely different issue that came up
You can do a resistance check from the other end of the harness to the connector to make sure it’s good.
Pin 8 has a repair
The black and white has a repair where it splits off.
What was the issue before it started doing this?
Click to expand...
The issue was the connector was loose and wires were broken ptu was not secured or mounted to a heat sync car used to missfire here and there cause of the loose connectors and ptu prolly over heating
 
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