420A Aftermarket Fuel Rail compatibility Thread

[Zen Hakuren]

Making a thread for aftermarket fuel rail compatibility. Please post fuel rail part numbers with what it is compatible with or what you are testing. Also post photos if available!
For example the AdlerSpeed High Flow CNC Billet Aluminum Fuel Rail Kit Compatible with Volvo 240, 740, 940 appears to fit the 2g 420a if the mounting brackets are reversed
OEM:

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Addler:

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[BLACK'98DSM]

The fuel rail is definitely the least restrictive component of this fuel system. There's been multiple 300+hp street cars using stock fuel rails. The only reason I see for aftermarket is if you get a sheet metal intake manifold and the stock rail no longer bolts up. Or if you're chasing some massive power number which is unachievable by the average builder, in which case another stock rail probably wouldn't suffice either. So why even bother with this?

 

[Zen Hakuren]

The fuel rail is definitely the least restrictive component of this fuel system. There's been multiple 300+hp street cars using stock fuel rails. The only reason I see for aftermarket is if you get a sheet metal intake manifold and the stock rail no longer bolts up. Or if you're chasing some massive power number which is unachievable by the average builder, in which case another stock rail probably wouldn't suffice either. So why even bother with this?

1. Because replacing it with aftermarket parts is difficult for the 420a.
2. I am adding an aftermarket FPR and AN lines for easy access and standardized replacement parts.
3.The stock rail only has a single inlet and no outlet as well as is, on its own, incompatible to AN without welding it.
4. Aftermarket rails usually have extra more documentation on flow and size then OEM ones
5. Because I wish to share relevant information to those who are looking for a replacement to there own fuel rail as other OEM rails share the same AN and other issues.
I am both asking and giving information. What is wrong with that?

 

[Zen Hakuren]

This one does not fit the 420a

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

I am both asking and giving information. What is wrong with that?

Nothing at all. I appreciate your desire to share information, and to attmept improving something for the 420a platform.
I was questioning the "why" of this particular study, knowing that the existing fuel rail is very capable.

3.The stock rail only has a single inlet and no outlet as well as is, on its own, incompatible to AN without welding it.

Yes, and no. Let me explain.
The stock fuel rail ALREADY has AN fitting. It's for the pressure test gauge. Remove the Shrader valve and now you have an inlet for the braided AN fuel hose. Three options remain for the original inlet. Now use it as an OUTLET, WELD it closed, or addition the pressure hookup reversly. Notice how the fuel line enters the engine bay from the passenger side firewall but connects to the driver side of the fuel rail. The pressure test fitting is on the passenger side of the rail, much closer to existing lines. You can plumb it almost directly.
You used the right terms but were missing useful information.

If having an aftermarket rail is what you desire, I wish you the best of luck. It won't necessarily be negative unless the setup is junk. Just unfortunately you won't be gaining anything unless your build is something crazy we should be hearing more about

 

[Zen Hakuren]

Nothing at all. I appreciate your desire to share information, and to attmept improving something for the 420a platform.
I was questioning the "why" of this particular study, knowing that the existing fuel rail is very capable.



Yes, and no. Let me explain.
The stock fuel rail ALREADY has AN fitting. It's for the pressure test gauge. Remove the Shrader valve and now you have an inlet for the braided AN fuel hose. Three options remain for the original inlet. Now use it as an OUTLET, WELD it closed, or addition the pressure hookup reversly. Notice how the fuel line enters the engine bay from the passenger side firewall but connects to the driver side of the fuel rail. The pressure test fitting is on the passenger side of the rail, much closer to existing lines. You can plumb it almost directly.
You used the right terms but were missing useful information.

If having an aftermarket rail is what you desire, I wish you the best of luck. It won't necessarily be negative unless the setup is junk. Just unfortunately you won't be gaining anything unless your build is something crazy we should be hearing more about

Thanks for the info. Currently I have an OBX That I'm looking to drill out and tap to 4 an and add my aftermarket FPR. I'll probably try removing that valve on the stock rail first though. Do you know what fitting size it is?