2g Timing belt/Tensioner Pulley/ VFaq Wrong?

[daren_p]

Okay Im replacing my timing belt on my 2g & I was following the 2g method from the VFaq. Replaced everything, got all the timing marks lines up & got the belt installed properly. My issue is with setting the belt tension, as I followed the exact steps they list in the 2g faq, (which didn't seem to make sense to me & didn't work) & the belt didn't have the proper tension as the auto tension goes fully extended. They tell you to compress the auto tensioner enough to pull the pin out, pull the pin out, then unscrew the tensioner tool. Next rotate the tensioner pulley so the holes are under the bolt. This is my first issue if I have the 2 holes in the 5 & 7 position under the bolt the auto tensioner fully extends. Then it tells you to rotate the crank until all marks line up again, losen off the tensioner pulley & apply 2.6 ft/lb to put some tension on the belt (steps seem backwards, belt should need to be tensioned before you pull the auto tensioner pin & not after like is told to do in the 2g faq). This makes no sense as the auto tensioner is already fully extended to take up the slack in the belt & applying 2.6 ft/lb obviously won't recompress the auto tensioner. With this method I get a fully extended auto tensioner with 2.6 ft/lbs of belt tension.

Now the 1g faq makes sense as you leave the pin in the auto tensioner, apply the torque to the tensioner pulley to pre load the belt abit & then you remove the pin. So my questions would be I just go by what is listed in the 1g FAQ (& somone should change the 2g FAQ)? and as far as tensioning goes & is it normal/okay for the holes in the tensioner pulley to be at the 3 & 6 oclock positions to get the proper gap on the auto tensioner, or is something else possibly wrong?

 

[housegsx]

Yeah, the tech article confuses the hell out of me every time I look at it. It has you repeating steps and loosing/tightening stuff multiple times.

This is how i do it. Put the tensioner on the engine with the pin inserted. Then I rotate the tensioner pulley counter clockwise (2g) and put some tension on the belt until the pin becomes loose in the hydrolic tensioner. Then I tighten the tensioner pulley bolt where I'm holding it. Make sure the pin is still free. If it is you're probably done.

Rotate the motor a couple times and make sure the tensioner is still within spec by either getting the pin to still slide in or measuring with a drill bit. The distance between the body of the tensioner and the arm should be 0.15-0.18 of an inch.

 

[daren_p]

Ya following the steps in that order are what made sense to me, but everyone says follow the vfaq exactly step for step to do it correctly, so I did even though I didn't think it would work correctly & of course it didn't work. I figured I should be doing what you said then took a look at the 1g faq, which does list the steps in what I thought should be the coorrect order. I'll do that tonight, just wanted to make sure I didn't somehow miss understand something in the 2g faq. As far as the 2 holes in the tensioner pulley, where do they normally line up, or does it really matter as long as you have the correct distance on the auto tensioner? Just seemed funny that with proper tension on my belt the holes are at 3 & 6 when all the pics show at 5 & 7, thanks.

 

[housegsx]

I think the two holes on my pulley ended up being around 4 and 6 o'clock. Something like that. You definitely need some type of tool to get that much tension on the belt. I just use a pair of 90° pliers. But yes, the distance on the tensioner is what matters.

 

[daren_p]

I do have the proper adapter to fit the tensioner pulley as a local guy makes them. Thanks for the input Erik. Was wondering if other 2g guys could give me input as to where the holes in the tensioner pulley ended up being when the belt properly tensioned. Just want to confrim if there is a reson why I have to rotate mine so much further then what the drawings show in the faq to pick up the belt slack, or if my positioning is normal & the pics with the both holes under the bolt aren't correct either.

 

[housegsx]

No problem.
I doubt the pictures are meant to be 100% accurate. And every car is a little different. If you've ever had you head decked, that would definitely explain the need to have the tensioner pulley rotated slightly more.

 

[daren_p]

Thought about the head being decked but don't think thats been done as the car had 20k on it & was completely stock when I got it but I guess it is possible for anything to happen.

 

[daren_p]

Well I went ahead and basically did the tensioning steps of the 1g FAQ & everything seemed to work out great. Used a .156 drill bit for the gap, applied 2.6 ft/lbs with the torque wrench on the belt, then gave it a touch more. After everything was done & settled gap ended up right around .150. Someone should really change the 2g FAQ as the tensioning steps aren't in the correct order.

 

[Kalisko]

back from the dead, but I think that guide gave me the wrong info and I didn't set tension correctly due to it. DOH. Car was pretty good but jumped time when I went to start it after my work shift.

Does vfaq have a different guide for setting timing? I'd rather use the one that is explained a little better.