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1990 AWD Talon Flash Red 5spd

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Rock Auto had a $8 closeout on the rotors from the 93-94 cars so I picked up some along with some closeout pads. They sell the dual calipers with the mounting bracket so even if I eat the core charge it’s good upgrade for the rusty stockers. I previously had replaced all the rubber hoses and put in a 3g master cylinder.

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I don’t know how I’ve missed this thread but I love what I see here, so much that you have going on here takes me back to when I first got into these 20 years ago before I could drive and seeing what everyone was doing back then. I’ve really been on the fence on what I want to do with mine or if I even wanted it at all anymore but this reminded me how simple these cars can be while working well, appreciate the motivation Mario.

On a side note, reading about your struggles with the C3 in the Merkur hit home. My truck has an A4LD that’s on borrowed time and a rebuilt one sitting here in my garage to go in it. Of course leave it to Ford to take a C3 that was already known junk and say “I know, let’s add an electronic overdrive to it, that will be a good idea!” and the god awful A4LD was born. Just further reminds me that the rebuilt one won’t last either and I’ll be putting a 302 and AOD in it before it’s all said and done whether I want to or not, so appreciate that too! Haha
 
Been trying to finish up my cyclone intake. None of the other threads i read mentioned that you have to modify the bracket in the back to the block. Would have been easier to do that before I fully mounted it up.

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Did you have the cyclone bracket? Or do you mean modify the original bracket to work with the cyclone?
 
Did you have the cyclone bracket? Or do you mean modify the original bracket to work with the cyclone?
The one I bought didn’t come with the cyclone bracket. Im trying to make the original 1g one work. The cyclone I bought was bare. No coil pack or canister either. And the actuator was blown. But I didn’t pay much for it.
 
The one I bought didn’t come with the cyclone bracket. Im trying to make the original 1g one work. The cyclone I bought was bare. No coil pack or canister either. And the actuator was blown. But I didn’t pay much for it.
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Honestly, you can just delete the bracket altogether. I did and noticed no ill effects. No leaking, no sagging intake, no ripped threads or rounded out/stripped bolts. I think it's legit just there to hold the million lines the OEM setup has running under there.
 
Honestly, you can just delete the bracket altogether. I did and noticed no ill effects. No leaking, no sagging intake, no ripped threads or rounded out/stripped bolts. I think it's legit just there to hold the million lines the OEM setup has running under there.
I haven’t used one in a long time either, shoot I had my knock sensor in one of the mounting holes for it since I didn’t have one of the non turbo blocks already drilled and tapped for it.
 
I saw a video on Facebook of someone who modified their bracket to fit on a 7bolt motor. I followed their lead and slotted the mount holes and drilled a new hole mounting hole. Not 100% the slotting was necessary but what was necessary was cutting off the metal emission pipes and a small tab that protruded out to clearance the AC compressor. So with that finally behind me I started back on the rest of the buttoning up.

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I like the paint job on it. How do you plan to actuate it?
Thank you. I need to touch up some spots after battling the bracket in and out so many times. I replaced the deteriorated factory actuator with one from a supercharger my buddy gave me. I’m using the a Dodge 4677204 check valve that I bought used on eBay and I have DSMlink to active the fuel pressure solenoid to control the vacuum source.
 
Since the Cyclone intake doesn’t accept USDM coil packs or PTUs I was using this occasion to move to a modern coil on plug setup. The only example I found on tuners was for a 91+ so I was left to my own on my 90 wiring. I fabbed up my own plate and wired the coils up but on the first start it didn’t fire and I received a check engine light. Turned out I mangled an injector plug on reassembly. I replaced the plug and tried again to start and it just wouldn’t light. I was going to try inverting my firing order but my wiring wasn’t long enough so I gave up for the moment especially since I noticed the tach wasn’t working either. (As I’m writing this I should have have tried inverting in ecmlink). Anxious to get it back running I reverted to the standard setup and planned to mount the coils on the shock tower like others have. I flipped the coils on the bracket and carved it up with a die grinder. I was worried the tach adapter wasn’t going to clear but it just did because of the timing belt hood hump. I just need to mount the ptu to be back in business.

 
Since the Cyclone intake doesn’t accept USDM coil packs or PTUs I was using this occasion to move to a modern coil on plug setup. The only example I found on tuners was for a 91+ so I was left to my own on my 90 wiring. I fabbed up my own plate and wired the coils up but on the first start it didn’t fire and I received a check engine light. Turned out I mangled an injector plug on reassembly. I replaced the plug and tried again to start and it just wouldn’t light. I was going to try inverting my firing order but my wiring wasn’t long enough so I gave up for the moment especially since I noticed the tach wasn’t working either. (As I’m writing this I should have have tried inverting in ecmlink). Anxious to get it back running I reverted to the standard setup and planned to mount the coils on the shock tower like others have. I flipped the coils on the bracket and carved it up with a die grinder. I was worried the tach adapter wasn’t going to clear but it just did because of the timing belt hood hump. I just need to mount the ptu to be back in business.


That will work. I tried coil on pack too and gave up. You can see my mock up. I still have the set up somewhere.
I mounted mine on the cyclone coil pack original location. Just made my own coil pack bracket out of some flat bar.
Had to grind one of the mounting boss in the back.
It is a very tight squeeze eitherway. No regret using the cyclone when activated properly. So much more drivable on low loads.

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That will work. I tried coil on pack too and gave up. You can see my mock up. I still have the set up somewhere.
I mounted mine on the cyclone coil pack original location. Just made my own coil pack bracket out of some flat bar.
Had to grind one of the mounting boss in the back.
It is a very tight squeeze eitherway. No regret using the cyclone when activated properly. So much more drivable on low loads.

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Thanks for the photos. If pull the intake again I try to mount it down there. Did you fab your own ptu bracket as well?
 
Thanks for the photos. If pull the intake again I try to mount it down there. Did you fab your own ptu bracket as well?
The PTU I just mounted behind the cyclone manifold using some flat scrap aluminum for heat sink. I think it was there originally on cyclone set up. You can barely see but here is a snap of it.

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The PTU I just mounted behind the cyclone manifold using some flat scrap aluminum for heat sink. I think it was there originally on cyclone set up. You can barely see but here is a snap of it.

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Gotcha. I can see it. I temporarily just mounted it to the solenoid bracket. I don’t love it but its just temporary. My no start condition seems to be persisting even with the standard coil and ptu so I need to do some more diag.

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Welp I guess I get a F- for how I finished out this Cyclone intake project. I got everything together after dealing with some electrical gremlins but I couldn’t get the car to run even after trying different injectors, mafs and ecus. One time it fired and ran straight to redline and that gave me a hint I had a vacuum leak. Boy did I ever. I guess I didn’t have the holes drilled properly on the modified bracket from the mani to block and the pressure from tightening it down cracked it. The previous owner had ported it quite a bit so that made it even weaker. I guess it’s back to the stock manifold for now.

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Welp I guess I get a F- for how I finished out this Cyclone intake project. I got everything together after dealing with some electrical gremlins but I couldn’t get the car to run even after trying different injectors, mafs and ecus. One time it fired and ran straight to redline and that gave me a hint I had a vacuum leak. Boy did I ever. I guess I didn’t have the holes drilled properly on the modified bracket from the mani to block and the pressure from tightening it down cracked it. The previous owner had ported it quite a bit so that made it even weaker. I guess it’s back to the stock manifold for now.

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That sucks bad...kinda weird how it cracked though. It makes me wonder if it was already hairline cracked from the previous owner and the added pressure just broke it all the way. Because those are serious breaks, and I have a tough time believing a bracket could do that unless you put a jack under the manifold to space it up more.

Also if anyone is curious my Cyclone came with the OEM Cyclone coilpack. I can get a picture of it if anyone wants to fab something up/copy it.
 
That’s got to be deflating. All that work and problem solving dashed by an issue you wouldn’t see coming. At least I have seen these manifolds pop up on occasion in the classifieds. Just a setback. Don’t abandon your vision!
 
Welp I guess I get a F- for how I finished out this Cyclone intake project. I got everything together after dealing with some electrical gremlins but I couldn’t get the car to run even after trying different injectors, mafs and ecus. One time it fired and ran straight to redline and that gave me a hint I had a vacuum leak. Boy did I ever. I guess I didn’t have the holes drilled properly on the modified bracket from the mani to block and the pressure from tightening it down cracked it. The previous owner had ported it quite a bit so that made it even weaker. I guess it’s back to the stock manifold for now.

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That sucks. At least you got it figured out.

The cyclone manifold bracket only needs to be modified to clear the AC compressor. Otherwise it’s a bolt on affair. Not sure if you saw the modification I did, it was mostly on the side to clear the AC.
 
That sucks. At least you got it figured out.

The cyclone manifold bracket only needs to be modified to clear the AC compressor. Otherwise it’s a bolt on affair. Not sure if you saw the modification I did, it was mostly on the side to clear the AC.
Ironically I was already committed to making a bracket because I was worried something like this could happen. I’ll try again if come across another at a good price. On the upside I’m becoming an intake mani R&R pro! It helps to pull the battery to get the lower one closest to the passenger side.
 
Ironically I was already committed to making a bracket because I was worried something like this could happen. I’ll try again if come across another at a good price. On the upside I’m becoming an intake mani R&R pro! It helps to pull the battery to get the lower one closest to the passenger side.
Props to you if you can remove cyclone manifold with engine in car. I remove the head and do head gasket and timing belt each time I needed cyclone off. Lol.
 
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