With Rockauto you can choose the manufacturer and get legitimate stuff like KYB which I always recommend. These package deals companies sell are usually just cheap Chinese or inferior parts or have issues. “Brand new” whatever manufacturer I’ve never heard of has a good deal on complete strut...

We are here to help. I think the majority of us think they don’t know what they are talking about or there is a big miscommunication on the actual issue.

I’m not going to add any useful information about the fuel issue but I will say the shop and techs shouldn’t be working on it. This is a 30 year old chassis with a fairly simple system for a novice to diagnose.

You just need to go through the maintenance, plugs&wires, check the belts, fix the boost leaks, get a manual boost controller for now and as soon as you can get DSMlink. It comes with a base map to get it going. You might be chasing some small issues but keeping the boost low and learning how to...

I’m pretty sure this build is now this . . .

Bosch widebands in general. There has been lots of issues over the years.

These wideband sensors are notorious for giving out after sitting or not being used because of condensation building on the sensor.

Propane works. I looked but I think it was a short on YouTube.

I learned about it a while ago from a video. Surprised the hell out of me on what came to surface and the moisture in general. I hope it helps. I’ll be spraying this one but stopped because I watched that video.

Did you run a torch across it before coating to get rid of the moisture?

You need to know what the code is first.

That wire shares power to the maf. Thats not a big deal.

1 red 1 orange to the solenoid I was talking about the split off of that power wire to the MAF.Essentially I’m asking if anything else can be used for or has been used to power other things or give other inputs to the ecu before I start snipping. Anything useful? Example I know my Derale...

I just wanted to know if there was any usefulness with the wires to the ecu and what to cut out of the harness. I understand the edge temp can be used for a sensor which is probably going to be fuel pressure but is there anything else I’m missing?Out: 1. PS Pressure switch 2. Power wire...

More wire sorting, laying and ideas. Where the cutting begins is when I get into the headlight harness. I’m putting the harness into the intercooler and washer fluid bottle holes and the light harness from below. Maybe on the crossmember. Maybe in front of the core support.

I keep on sorting the wiring where I want it to go. Decided I needed to break out the Jay Racing relocation kit out and get into the radiator support harness to get the wiring out. I had to cut the charging light wire but plan on running a wire to it. I also had issues with the lower bracket...

Sweet man. I’m glad I could help and it’s working.

I’m going to remove mine so I’ll have some available. Just send me a pm.

We believe the previous repair, whatever that was where the oil pan had to come off, caused a good portion of this. The o-ring is either the feed or the return, the two ports are for the oil filter housing, which runs variable timing and is needed for direct injection, the camshaft follower...

Sounds like a plan.

Yes The end of the connector Possibly pulling the isolator to see the actual pins. The pins on the ptu itself. You say new but that looks used.

Checked everything front and rear? You said you replaced everything but haven’t checked the balljoints which come in control arms. We’re going to need some pics front and rear and possibly a video doing a pull safely.

It could be torque steer but Have you raised it and checked side/side and up/down play by moving the wheel? Have you visually inspected the suspension? Balljoints, bushings, control arms. Rotated tires? We need a base to start and pics help.

It still points to a bad ptu, ign. coil or cam or crank sensors. How does the end of the connector look? You can take it apart to check.

There’s a with and without alarm diagram for the headlights assuming it’s about the same as a VR-4 Galant

It’s wired incorrectly but I don’t have a diagram that might be right until tomorrow. You have every red wire going to that plug and that doesn’t seem right. There’s other wires going to below the headlight itself.

Well I’m hoping I can drive it by my birthday the 31st of July. It’s just how far do I want to go.

I’m still in the wiring trying to figure out what I do and don’t need to thin the harness. I’m probably going to run the harness from wheel well to wheel well differently to make room for other things. I also just started cutting to make room for the radiator but didn’t want to grab a welder...

I’m still figuring out the wiring. Speed density labeled and ready but I’m in between map sensors and don’t know if the resistance in the RIFE sensor would kill the DSMlink but I have a Omni 4 bar. Second thought was the radiator support and really wanting that extra room. I just need to finish...

It’s either not the issue Is the issue but it’s not seen Or a completely different issue that came up You can do a resistance check from the other end of the harness to the connector to make sure it’s good. Pin 8 has a repair The black and white has a repair where it splits off. What was the...

If you have those two black and white wires mixed up it’s probably shorted anyways but you could try it. What’s that black wire going to the positive cable end?

I believe I might have to do a step by step at this point. I was looking for a couple days for and just couldn’t believe I didn’t find even a simple wire color, picture reference or step-by-step. I appreciate it.

I may have missed the short bus. Is there a definitive step by step process for wiring to include everything? Map and IAT sensor wiring, things needed, things deleted, etc.?

Friday night-Monday night.

Trans cooler mounted up.

Friday night-Monday night. Back harness stripped and labeled Alternator and power steering out. Jay racing kit waiting until after the block is clean. FPR mounted. Intake manifold prepped and shot with wrinkle(it’s better then what it was) Mounted an old Wilson 75mm TB but has a DSMPT 60mm I...

I’ve had the manifold since 06.

I’ve honestly been working too hard at work to have the enthusiasm or energy to work on my own passions for a while. I made the decision to get it running and driving before my birthday July 31. It was running before I started modding in 2019. I was rushed to find a house to not deal with...

Amazon has assortment kits for pins.

NTK/NGK is the best.

Hondabond or Permatex grey would work well.

https://stmtuned.com/products/stm-wire-bulkhead-fitting?currency=USD&variant=45292576457&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&stkn=49edf698c52c&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw2PSvBhDjARIsAKc2cgMsjGa4RGquh08-oYbGulDODP1hdiziSCuwCK07yLzXYLeUZj0vwQMaAuKMEALw_wcBCorrosion...

Is the manifold had oil on it or is coated it will smoke for a little while but a video is better to understand where the smoke is actually coming from.

I think this is a great maintenance item for the in between crowd that are trying to not have vibrations or just bring the chassis’ back to glory. I’ll grab a couple sets just to have like yourself.

I’d have to hook up a battery and find out and take some better pictures.

Get them while they are hot.

They’ve been discontinued for years so it might not be updated.I realized that I don’t have the time to do what I want to this car and I’d hate to let it sit or crush it. I haven’t washed or done much to it if anyone needs a surface rust chassis for a racecar.. . . and that I...

From what I understand, the 2G sensor is better and picks up knock a lot better than a obd1 era sensor but we do not like to use them because they read better and most likely need a standalone to play with the knock counter. There’s an old thread and a AEM engineer explained it to a dsmtalk...