This info is provided by @twicks69
Backstory : My transmission was sent to a shop and no longer shifted when I got it back. It was "stuck".
To do the job, read up:
Remove the 5th gear cover (12mm long and short bolts) and gently pry using a small prybar evenly around the cover to remove it. Unstake the end shaft nuts with a hammer and a STRAIGHT BLADE (cabinet tip) 3/16" flat head screwdriver that fits into the groove on the shafts. Hammer the screwdriver so that you gently expand the detents on the shaft nut so it can be removed with a 36mm socket and 1/2" impact. Manually shift the transmission into reverse with your hand holding the reverse synchro in place while you shift the selector lever up and away to engage reverse gear. The slider will engage the reverse synchro and then you can remove the shaft nuts. You can also a roll pin punch and hammer and remove the roll pin from the 5th/Rev shift fork and manually shift the transmission into 1st and 5th) to lock the transmission. Then, using a 1/2" impact and 36mm socket, remove the end shaft nuts from 5th gear and 5th intermediate gear.
If the 5th/Rev shift fork roll pin is still installed, remove it using a 5mm or 3/16" roll pin punch and hammer. It is best to use the pin punch and pound the pin outward as you may get it stuck in the hub assembly if you don't know what you are doing. There are two versions of 5/R shift rails that have different roll pin orientations; 95-96 has the roll pin oriented straight up/down from the detents on the rail; while 97-99 has the roll pin offset from the detents on the rail. The 95-96 requires you to use a roll pin punch from the backside of the rail hitting the pin outwards, while the 97-99 you can hit the roll pin out in either direction without it contacting the 5th/Rev hub. If you are working with the 95-96 style, hit the roll pin outwards and when it has enough meat on it showing, use a vise grips pliers on the roll pin and rotate it back and forth while pulling the roll pin outward to remove it.
Once the roll pin is removed, then use two small to medium sized prybars EVENLY pressing the hub upwards by placing the prybars UNDER 5th gear synchro, between 5th gear and 5th synchro. This will prevent damage to the components while you are removing the hub and slider assembly.
Once the hub and slider assembly has been removed, remove the 5th gear and synchro, and 5th gear split needle bearing. Now, remove the 5th intermediate gear. ***NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE 5th intermediate gear and the flange orientation so you don't put it on upside down when reinstalling it.*** It should be easy to remove by hand, or hard to remove requiring special tools -- DO NOT PRY THE GEAR OFF!!! YOU WILL CHIP THE TEETH! Use the proper tool. That would be an OTC 1122 bearing splitter and OTC 7393 push-puller tool by inserting the jaws on the top flange of the 5th intermediate gear and then remove the gear.
Remove the reverse switch (24mm wrench or deep socket), remove the reverse lockout bolt (19mm), remove the three shift detent poppet plugs (14mm)/springs/detent balls (using a pen magnet), and reverse idler gear bolt (14mm bolt next to front differential passenger-side axle seal; either a T50 torx or a 14mm bolt).
Remove all of the case section bolts, and remove case section gently using two prybars evenly spreading the case gently upward. ***NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE REVERSE IDLER GEAR*** You will need to have the reverse idler shaft oriented properly so that the reverse idler gear shaft bolt properly reinstalls -- note the direction that is required so it matches up with the transmission case for easy installation. Take care of the black plastic oil guide that clips into the case.
Now, with the case removed, you have access to the front differential and the gearset to see what the problem is.
I am suspecting you will find your issue there; check the 3 shift rails and shift fork roll pins to make sure they are aligned properly (all 3 shift rail ends aligned with the shift selector tab and cage in the neutral position).
If for some reason you need to do a full disassembly, here is the front diff removal / disassembly -
Remove the differential, and set aside. Using a 1/2" impact and 6-point 19mm socket, remove the bolts EVENLY by going around and loosening them about a revolution at a time; they are loctited in and if you try to remove one at a time without loosening them all first, you can damage the threads on the bolts. After you have gone around and loosened all of the bolts evenly and all are removed, then you can remove the ring gear, clean it, and file off any loctite on the bores with a round bastard file, brake clean and compressed air.
Install the ring gear onto the Quaife differential, and then use Loctite 243 (loctite blue) and torque to around 74 ft/lbs by tightening in a star pattern or even back-and-forth so that the ring gear is perfectly seated flat. You can tighten them in a fixture, or you can simply pull out a decent 3/8" cordless impact and 19mm socket and have at it. Tightening the bolts in a star pattern.
To remove the tapered roller bearing races, they sometimes will just slide out, or you will need to use a slide hammer and bearing race extractor tool. There is a shim under the passenger side bearing race in the main gear cluster case section, while there is no shim under the bearing race in the bellhousing case section. Be sure to reinstall the shim into the correct case section before installation of the new bearing races. Use a mixture of petroleum jelly and 75w140 gear oil mixed together or lube up the bores with gear oil and gently tap in the bearing races into the case sections.
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To remove the gearset - remove front diff and output pinion shaft and set aside.
Remove the 1/2 and 3/4 shift fork roll pins with a 3/16" roll pin punch.
Remove the reverse idler gear rail and gear, and unbolt the reverse idler lever (2x 12mm bolts -- 18ft/lb torque spec for reassembly) and remove the lever and key.
Rotate the 5th/Reverse rail to the right away from the selector assembly and pull up, then rotate the 3rd/4th shift rail to the right while shifting towards 1st/2nd rail and pull up. Those are separated and pulled up and away from the selector assembly. Now, rotate the 1/2 shift rail to the left of the selector tab and rotate the selector arm so that the rail end can pull up to the left side of the selector cage and selector tab (lever will pull out and rotate away to get clearance). With all three rails disengaged from the selector assembly, then pull up on both input shaft and intermediate shaft clusters at the same time. Both clusters and all 3 shift rails and both forks will come out together.
Let me know if you need further instructions past this for disassembly.
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Clean the case sections where the RTV silicone bond surface is with brake clean, razor blade, brass brush, etc.
Assembly - Be sure all case flanges are free of oil residue or the RTV will not bond to it.
RTV the case section flange evenly with a thin bead of Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Gray RTV silicone. Otherwise, using your finger, evenly spread a thin coat on the case section flange so that all contact area is evenly covered with the RTV silicone. Install the case section WITH THE MAIN CASE OIL GUIDE and MAGNET TRAY DON'T FORGET THOSE!!
Make sure your reverse idler gear is in the correct orientation so that you will be able to get the bolt back through the case and align with the rail. Use a flat head screwdriver, or roll pin punch to rotate the rail for fine adjustment for the tapered thread bolt to align.
AGAIN: Reinstall the case section making sure that you have the magnet tray reinstalled (if removed from the bellhousing) and the black plastic oiling guide reinstalled on the gear cluster case section.
Reinstall the reverse idler gear bolt to 22-29 lb/ft torque. (Tapered end bolt with 1mm thick aluminum flat crush washer). What I typically do is get the case section on, align the reverse idler gear bolt and install it to where it is catching and threaded mostly in, then I install the case section bolts (next step).
Reinstall the 14mm bolts that attach the main case section to the bellhousing to 29 lb/ft torque EVENLY.
Reinstall the 19mm reverse lockout switch bolt (19mm head with spring-loaded detent ball on the end and aluminum flat 1mm thick crush washer) to 22-25 lb/ft torque.
Reinstall the 24mm reverse switch (plug head with 24mm hex-shape body and 1mm aluminum flat crush washer -- DO NOT FORGET THE 1mm thick aluminum crush WASHER or you will have problems shifting into 5th/Reverse) to 22-25 lb/ft torque.
Reinstall 5th intermediate gear in the correct orientation, and 5th gear split needle bearings/5th gear (lube up the bearing and the gear bore and friction surfaces with your trans lube before installing. Reinstall the 5th/Reverse hub and slider gently/evenly with 5th and reverse synchros oriented properly so it does not bind up or get damaged. Slide the hub and slider back on WITH THE 5th/Rev shift fork at the same time being installed onto the 5th/Rev rail.
Reinstall the 5th/Rev shift fork roll pin. Shift back to neutral and press on Rev synchro to make sure it is sitting properly flat.
Manually shift the transmission into reverse (OR like last time, before reinstalling the roll pin, shift the transmission into 1st manually, then into 5th gear with your hand engaging the hub/slider onto 5th).
Install new end shaft nuts to 102-115 lb/ft torque. Or use 1/2" impact with 36mm shaft nut.
Stake the detents with either a punch/hammer or a small point punch on an air hammer GENTLY for both end shaft nuts. It doesn't need to be completely flattened in, it just need to have enough that it will not loosen on its own.
RTV transmission case flange for 5th gear cover. Let tack 10 minutes before reinstallation.
Be sure your reverse wave spring is still in place on the 5th gear cover, fully locked into place, and reverse synchro is properly reinstalled with the keyways matching the synchro to the hub and slider so it sits flat..
Be sure that you have the roll pin back in the 5th/Rev shift fork, and that the transmission is back in the neutral position.
Reinstall 5th gear cover and 12mm bolts to 22 lb/ft torque evenly.
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Backstory : My transmission was sent to a shop and no longer shifted when I got it back. It was "stuck".
- Check dumb stuff first. Reverse light switch should have a 1mm crush washer under it; if it is missing it will be jamming 5th/Rev shift rail. Same goes for the 19mm reverse lockout poppet bolt -- 1mm crush washer under that too.
To do the job, read up:
Remove the 5th gear cover (12mm long and short bolts) and gently pry using a small prybar evenly around the cover to remove it. Unstake the end shaft nuts with a hammer and a STRAIGHT BLADE (cabinet tip) 3/16" flat head screwdriver that fits into the groove on the shafts. Hammer the screwdriver so that you gently expand the detents on the shaft nut so it can be removed with a 36mm socket and 1/2" impact. Manually shift the transmission into reverse with your hand holding the reverse synchro in place while you shift the selector lever up and away to engage reverse gear. The slider will engage the reverse synchro and then you can remove the shaft nuts. You can also a roll pin punch and hammer and remove the roll pin from the 5th/Rev shift fork and manually shift the transmission into 1st and 5th) to lock the transmission. Then, using a 1/2" impact and 36mm socket, remove the end shaft nuts from 5th gear and 5th intermediate gear.
If the 5th/Rev shift fork roll pin is still installed, remove it using a 5mm or 3/16" roll pin punch and hammer. It is best to use the pin punch and pound the pin outward as you may get it stuck in the hub assembly if you don't know what you are doing. There are two versions of 5/R shift rails that have different roll pin orientations; 95-96 has the roll pin oriented straight up/down from the detents on the rail; while 97-99 has the roll pin offset from the detents on the rail. The 95-96 requires you to use a roll pin punch from the backside of the rail hitting the pin outwards, while the 97-99 you can hit the roll pin out in either direction without it contacting the 5th/Rev hub. If you are working with the 95-96 style, hit the roll pin outwards and when it has enough meat on it showing, use a vise grips pliers on the roll pin and rotate it back and forth while pulling the roll pin outward to remove it.
Once the roll pin is removed, then use two small to medium sized prybars EVENLY pressing the hub upwards by placing the prybars UNDER 5th gear synchro, between 5th gear and 5th synchro. This will prevent damage to the components while you are removing the hub and slider assembly.
Once the hub and slider assembly has been removed, remove the 5th gear and synchro, and 5th gear split needle bearing. Now, remove the 5th intermediate gear. ***NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE 5th intermediate gear and the flange orientation so you don't put it on upside down when reinstalling it.*** It should be easy to remove by hand, or hard to remove requiring special tools -- DO NOT PRY THE GEAR OFF!!! YOU WILL CHIP THE TEETH! Use the proper tool. That would be an OTC 1122 bearing splitter and OTC 7393 push-puller tool by inserting the jaws on the top flange of the 5th intermediate gear and then remove the gear.
Remove the reverse switch (24mm wrench or deep socket), remove the reverse lockout bolt (19mm), remove the three shift detent poppet plugs (14mm)/springs/detent balls (using a pen magnet), and reverse idler gear bolt (14mm bolt next to front differential passenger-side axle seal; either a T50 torx or a 14mm bolt).
Remove all of the case section bolts, and remove case section gently using two prybars evenly spreading the case gently upward. ***NOTE THE ORIENTATION OF THE REVERSE IDLER GEAR*** You will need to have the reverse idler shaft oriented properly so that the reverse idler gear shaft bolt properly reinstalls -- note the direction that is required so it matches up with the transmission case for easy installation. Take care of the black plastic oil guide that clips into the case.
Now, with the case removed, you have access to the front differential and the gearset to see what the problem is.
I am suspecting you will find your issue there; check the 3 shift rails and shift fork roll pins to make sure they are aligned properly (all 3 shift rail ends aligned with the shift selector tab and cage in the neutral position).
If for some reason you need to do a full disassembly, here is the front diff removal / disassembly -
Remove the differential, and set aside. Using a 1/2" impact and 6-point 19mm socket, remove the bolts EVENLY by going around and loosening them about a revolution at a time; they are loctited in and if you try to remove one at a time without loosening them all first, you can damage the threads on the bolts. After you have gone around and loosened all of the bolts evenly and all are removed, then you can remove the ring gear, clean it, and file off any loctite on the bores with a round bastard file, brake clean and compressed air.
Install the ring gear onto the Quaife differential, and then use Loctite 243 (loctite blue) and torque to around 74 ft/lbs by tightening in a star pattern or even back-and-forth so that the ring gear is perfectly seated flat. You can tighten them in a fixture, or you can simply pull out a decent 3/8" cordless impact and 19mm socket and have at it. Tightening the bolts in a star pattern.
To remove the tapered roller bearing races, they sometimes will just slide out, or you will need to use a slide hammer and bearing race extractor tool. There is a shim under the passenger side bearing race in the main gear cluster case section, while there is no shim under the bearing race in the bellhousing case section. Be sure to reinstall the shim into the correct case section before installation of the new bearing races. Use a mixture of petroleum jelly and 75w140 gear oil mixed together or lube up the bores with gear oil and gently tap in the bearing races into the case sections.
--------------------------------
To remove the gearset - remove front diff and output pinion shaft and set aside.
Remove the 1/2 and 3/4 shift fork roll pins with a 3/16" roll pin punch.
Remove the reverse idler gear rail and gear, and unbolt the reverse idler lever (2x 12mm bolts -- 18ft/lb torque spec for reassembly) and remove the lever and key.
Rotate the 5th/Reverse rail to the right away from the selector assembly and pull up, then rotate the 3rd/4th shift rail to the right while shifting towards 1st/2nd rail and pull up. Those are separated and pulled up and away from the selector assembly. Now, rotate the 1/2 shift rail to the left of the selector tab and rotate the selector arm so that the rail end can pull up to the left side of the selector cage and selector tab (lever will pull out and rotate away to get clearance). With all three rails disengaged from the selector assembly, then pull up on both input shaft and intermediate shaft clusters at the same time. Both clusters and all 3 shift rails and both forks will come out together.
Let me know if you need further instructions past this for disassembly.
-----------------------
Clean the case sections where the RTV silicone bond surface is with brake clean, razor blade, brass brush, etc.
Assembly - Be sure all case flanges are free of oil residue or the RTV will not bond to it.
RTV the case section flange evenly with a thin bead of Permatex Ultra Black or Ultra Gray RTV silicone. Otherwise, using your finger, evenly spread a thin coat on the case section flange so that all contact area is evenly covered with the RTV silicone. Install the case section WITH THE MAIN CASE OIL GUIDE and MAGNET TRAY DON'T FORGET THOSE!!
Make sure your reverse idler gear is in the correct orientation so that you will be able to get the bolt back through the case and align with the rail. Use a flat head screwdriver, or roll pin punch to rotate the rail for fine adjustment for the tapered thread bolt to align.
AGAIN: Reinstall the case section making sure that you have the magnet tray reinstalled (if removed from the bellhousing) and the black plastic oiling guide reinstalled on the gear cluster case section.
Reinstall the reverse idler gear bolt to 22-29 lb/ft torque. (Tapered end bolt with 1mm thick aluminum flat crush washer). What I typically do is get the case section on, align the reverse idler gear bolt and install it to where it is catching and threaded mostly in, then I install the case section bolts (next step).
Reinstall the 14mm bolts that attach the main case section to the bellhousing to 29 lb/ft torque EVENLY.
Reinstall the 19mm reverse lockout switch bolt (19mm head with spring-loaded detent ball on the end and aluminum flat 1mm thick crush washer) to 22-25 lb/ft torque.
Reinstall the 24mm reverse switch (plug head with 24mm hex-shape body and 1mm aluminum flat crush washer -- DO NOT FORGET THE 1mm thick aluminum crush WASHER or you will have problems shifting into 5th/Reverse) to 22-25 lb/ft torque.
Reinstall 5th intermediate gear in the correct orientation, and 5th gear split needle bearings/5th gear (lube up the bearing and the gear bore and friction surfaces with your trans lube before installing. Reinstall the 5th/Reverse hub and slider gently/evenly with 5th and reverse synchros oriented properly so it does not bind up or get damaged. Slide the hub and slider back on WITH THE 5th/Rev shift fork at the same time being installed onto the 5th/Rev rail.
Reinstall the 5th/Rev shift fork roll pin. Shift back to neutral and press on Rev synchro to make sure it is sitting properly flat.
Manually shift the transmission into reverse (OR like last time, before reinstalling the roll pin, shift the transmission into 1st manually, then into 5th gear with your hand engaging the hub/slider onto 5th).
Install new end shaft nuts to 102-115 lb/ft torque. Or use 1/2" impact with 36mm shaft nut.
Stake the detents with either a punch/hammer or a small point punch on an air hammer GENTLY for both end shaft nuts. It doesn't need to be completely flattened in, it just need to have enough that it will not loosen on its own.
RTV transmission case flange for 5th gear cover. Let tack 10 minutes before reinstallation.
Be sure your reverse wave spring is still in place on the 5th gear cover, fully locked into place, and reverse synchro is properly reinstalled with the keyways matching the synchro to the hub and slider so it sits flat..
Be sure that you have the roll pin back in the 5th/Rev shift fork, and that the transmission is back in the neutral position.
Reinstall 5th gear cover and 12mm bolts to 22 lb/ft torque evenly.
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