Good $hit man , I'm
Jealous ! Deffintally gotta go cruising this year once she's done

What started off as a small order of some transfer case bearings and races, ballooned into adding some Moog front wheel hubs, seals, front caliper slide pins, and another 9627PT head gasket. Basically I scraped the closeouts for a few things.

And I forgot to add an xfer case output seal. And the 5% coupon.

All my O/T for last week gone in a flash but I couldn't pass up having a spare set of front hubs as I don't have any on standby and the savings were too good.

New valve stem seals and those pesky oil squirter crush washers care of @DSSA once again

Popped open the oil pump that came with the car and found these guys..
Also, still need to measure, but the pump looks good visually

Wow you can really tell the difference..
I figure the pump I pulled off my most recent motor (that I didn't build) may have been OEM because the oil passages look deep and lovely



The pump I took off my motor I built back in 2012 was a Melling, I think. Helical gears and passages were much more narrow.



I have a brand new ACL, also helical obviously, that his very similar to the Melling or whatever it was, but ever so slightly closer to the first one.



Given all this, I would most preferably want to re-run the one from this motor that I can only assume given the quality of the machining is OEM. There's a bit of a ridge on the bottom of the drive shaft's bore surface though which corresponds with the shaft's outer piling groove edge.
It's not a score inward, it's a ridge outward.
I don't see how an overtightened belt would make that happen, given its on the bottom and there's no damage to the bore anywhere else. It's totally smooth
Bottom:


Top:

And in typical ACL fashion, quality control is shit
Something knicked the shaft, then they installed it, and it scratched the inner bore. Also, , did they miss the mark drilling the oiling hole in the shaft the first time?

Also, the drive gear shaft is damn tight on the bore. It doesn't even feel or look like there's oil clearance. The other pumps have a slight side to side but nothing crazy, the ACL doesn't budge. How is oil, especially cold oil, even supposed to lubricate that entire surface...
I wonder if the bore isn't correct for the shaft diameter.

Spent another afternoon mostly cleaning but also some fun bits.

Decided that even though there's deepish gouge in one half of the front case's driven gear bore surface, I still feel better about that one than the one off my other motor or the new ACL. The oiling passages of both of those for the gear surfaces are so small compared to what I figure is this oem case and pump. Pictures are above which explain what I'm on about.

Cleaned and gave the water pipe a clean and gave it a shot of high heat silver, then wrapped the area nearest the turbine housing with some heat reflective tape. Did not paint the area where it's wrapped.



Cleaned up the rust and primed battery tray. Painting tomorrow


Finally added the hoods to the prosport Evo gauges. I don't know how much it will end up helping to find daylight washout but we will see.

curt-s said:

Spent another afternoon mostly cleaning but also some fun bits.

Decided that even though there's deepish gouge in one half of the front case's driven gear bore surface, I still feel better about that one than the one off my other motor or the new ACL. The oiling passages of both of those for the gear surfaces are so small compared to what I figure is this oem case and pump. Pictures are above which explain what I'm on about.

Cleaned and gave the water pipe a clean and gave it a shot of high heat silver, then wrapped the area nearest the turbine housing with some heat reflective tape. Did not paint the area where it's wrapped.

View attachment 729267

Cleaned up the rust and primed battery tray. Painting tomorrow
View attachment 729268

Finally added the hoods to the prosport Evo gauges. I don't know how much it will end up helping to find daylight washout but we will see.
View attachment 729269

Click to expand...

Reminds me I need to do the same to my battery tray.

And my CAS.

And a bunch of s***.


Looks great though broski!

Thanksya!
Here's the washout I mean. It's gross. I sent this to prosport and basically they didn't give a shit or offer anything helpful. But it's both gauges and their brightness dials are maxed out.


I'd love to find a good instrument cluster gauge holder rather than using a triple pillar, but it's what I gots. I don't now how well the glowshift one fits and it's nearly $100 to find out.. so this year is just getting it back running.
Can make it more perfect next year.

Removed center console to replace with the proper grey one.


Can see just what kind of colour difference


Needs a good cleaning and some crack repair. Bonus? JBweld is the exact same shade of grey.
Fills cracks nicely.

curt-s said:

Removed center console to replace with the proper grey one.
View attachment 730361

Can see just what kind of colour difference
View attachment 730362

Needs a good cleaning and some crack repair. Bonus? JBweld is the exact same shade of grey.
Fills cracks nicely.

Click to expand...

It's the small things isn't it? Love it.

CrackedDSM said:

It's the small things isn't it? Love it.

Click to expand...

Absolutely, was a nice surprise. So I parted the crack best I could but wasn't afraid of smearing the jb into the crack and on the surface, then just wiped off the surface. Leftover residue, if any, is the same shade so cleanup is .. well, practically nothing.

Going to use this as an opportunity to put some thin double sided foam just to dampen plastic-plastic vibrations. Will it help? Maybe not, but I'll think it does, and that's enough for me.

Moving some trash out, I toppled one of my cams off the chest freezer and onto the floor. It might have hit concrete, or the floor mat that's in that area, but she fell 4 feet. Could be bent now. I've had these stock cams since 2008.

I have a second set from this engine but I don't know if the profile is any different from the bog standard 1g as they could have come from what I believe is the JDM Galant Evolution VR4 as is the rest of the motor. In fact, I would bet that they did considering the pistons (63DTR), intake manifold (cyclone but not labelled as such), and turbo (big 16g 49178-01420) are all a match.

Maybe I should try and find a set of 264s. I don't want to lose bottom end.

curt-s said:

Absolutely, was a nice surprise. So I parted the crack best I could but wasn't afraid of smearing the jb into the crack and on the surface, then just wiped off the surface. Leftover residue, if any, is the same shade so cleanup is .. well, practically nothing.

Going to use this as an opportunity to put some thin double sided foam just to dampen plastic-plastic vibrations. Will it help? Maybe not, but I'll think it does, and that's enough for me.

Moving some trash out, I toppled one of my cams off the chest freezer and onto the floor. It might have hit concrete, or the floor mat that's in that area, but she fell 4 feet. Could be bent now. I've had these stock cams since 2008.

I have a second set from this engine but I don't know if the profile is any different from the bog standard 1g as they could have come from what I believe is the JDM Galant Evolution VR4 as is the rest of the motor. In fact, I would bet that they did considering the pistons (63DTR), intake manifold (cyclone but not labelled as such), and turbo (big 16g 49178-01420) are all a match.

Maybe I should try and find a set of 264s. I don't want to lose bottom end.

Click to expand...

FWIW, my old HKS 272s didn't kill bottom end torque at all with my 16G/Cyclone setup. I was still able to stall it up on the stock tight AF 1G converter. Don't have experience with any other 272 on a 16G setup though.

CrackedDSM said:

FWIW, my old HKS 272s didn't kill bottom end torque at all with my 16G/Cyclone setup. I was still able to stall it up on the stock tight AF 1G converter. Don't have experience with any other 272 on a 16G setup though.

Click to expand...

Sure but finding a set..
Was mentally toying with the idea of GSC S1s
This being an unexpected purchase, I'd like to not spend a grand on cams.

curt-s said:

Sure but finding a set..
Was mentally toying with the idea of GSC S1s
This being an unexpected purchase, I'd like to not spend a grand on cams.

Click to expand...

That’s true. I found a couple on FB but then you’d have to dip your genitals in the cess/snake pool that is FB.

curt-s said:

Absolutely, was a nice surprise. So I parted the crack best I could but wasn't afraid of smearing the jb into the crack and on the surface, then just wiped off the surface. Leftover residue, if any, is the same shade so cleanup is .. well, practically nothing.

Going to use this as an opportunity to put some thin double sided foam just to dampen plastic-plastic vibrations. Will it help? Maybe not, but I'll think it does, and that's enough for me.

Moving some trash out, I toppled one of my cams off the chest freezer and onto the floor. It might have hit concrete, or the floor mat that's in that area, but she fell 4 feet. Could be bent now. I've had these stock cams since 2008.

I have a second set from this engine but I don't know if the profile is any different from the bog standard 1g as they could have come from what I believe is the JDM Galant Evolution VR4 as is the rest of the motor. In fact, I would bet that they did considering the pistons (63DTR), intake manifold (cyclone but not labelled as such), and turbo (big 16g 49178-01420) are all a match.

Maybe I should try and find a set of 264s. I don't want to lose bottom end.

Click to expand...

I have my OEM 96 cams with roughly 25k miles on them and will eventually be selling my 264s once I pull them out.

fourgsixty3 said:

I have my OEM 96 cams with roughly 25k miles on them and will eventually be selling my 264s once I pull them out.
View attachment 730414

Click to expand...

Shoot me a pm when you're offloading your 264s. I'm in Canada but perhaps we can do a ship-to-North-Dakota-border-service deal (Mike's parcel service) so you don't have to mess with customs.

Until then, I do have my other set of Evo GVR4 stockers that I can potentially use. I just wonder if they changed the profile.

curt-s said:

Shoot me a pm when you're offloading your 264s. I'm in Canada but perhaps we can do a ship-to-North-Dakota-border-service deal (Mike's parcel service) so you don't have to mess with customs.

Until then, I do have my other set of Evo GVR4 stockers that I can potentially use. I just wonder if they changed the profile.

Click to expand...

Will do. Looks like 1g and vr4 camshafts have the same part number. I remember back in the day hearing about people using 1g cams in a 2g for a small gain but don't know how true that is.

fourgsixty3 said:

Will do. Looks like 1g and vr4 camshafts have the same part number. I remember back in the day hearing about people using 1g cams in a 2g for a small gain but don't know how true that is.

View attachment 730422View attachment 730423

Click to expand...

Does that cover the Evo GVR4 that had the higher output ? I wonder if that was just the 16g or a combo of turbo and cam. Little information is available publically about that particular beastie, and some contradictory.

Cleaned up the replacement center console and installed it.



Gave the battery tray a shot of gloss black hi temp.

.. that's about it. Was going to drill out the holes for the -10an oil return bung and a 1/8npt bung for optional oil temp sender but I don't have a step drill bit large enough for the former and I wasn't sure where to put the hole in the pan for the 1/8npt.

curt-s said:

Does that cover the Evo GVR4 that had the higher output ? I wonder if that was just the 16g or a combo of turbo and cam. Little information is available publically about that particular beastie, and some contradictory.

Click to expand...

I didn't even know that was a thing. Search revealed absolutely nothing.

Pulled the cams out of the 1g style head that this motor came with.
Disappointed to only find the original HLAs. Was hoping to have some revised spares
The cam journals and lobes as well as the rockers are in much better condition than my old pair. Probably because of 1/3rd the mileage, given how JDM motors usually come here pretty low

My old cams are smooth body which, according to the cam ID thread, are possibly kia/Hyundai.
Intake cam has C stamped on the CAS end for exhaust, D for intake.


These cams are rougher and have the A stamp, but if that's not to be used to ID, they have numbers on the end (CAS side):

Exhaust: 102221019
Intake: 102222228

Old smooth ones:
Intake
Base circle: 1.184
Toe: 1.396
Cam lift: 0.212
Net lift: 0.360

Exhaust:
Base circle: 1.183
Toe: 1.398
Cam lift: 0.215
Net lift: 0.366

"New" rough 'A' cast;
Intake
Base circle: 1.180
Toe: 1.395
Cam lift: 0.215
Net lift: 0.366

Exhaust:
Base circle: 1.183
Toe: 1.400
Cam lift: 0.217
Net lift: 0.369

Now the thread
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/camshaft-identification-information.435135/ gives one measurement for each stock can but I've measured and measured again and they definitely are different for mine.

It appears I get a couple more thousandths lift between the ones going out and the ones going in. Yay.

Still want to replace them with some better ones but patiently biding my time

Just need to protect these from getting knocked over. They're pretty minty.

Journals on the head are also completely clean to so I know they're not bent

Ordered a few things..
- new ARP headstuds. Mine have a couple torques on them and figured if I'm already in this deep, why not use a new set
- UEGO 4110. Retiring the MTX-L. Mostly I'm doing this to validate that my WB readings are accurate
- TPP manifold blanket. Had one of these on my 1g until it literally disintegrated. Was fantastic.
- B&M 70273 to replace whatever cooler is on there now
- King XP rod bearings. Because I'm not super enthused about the ACLs I have and I want a third option ready during assembly
- new clutch pivot ball and release bearing. Already have an unused OEM but another for $40USD, I couldn't say no.
- A/T spacer plate because I lost mine somewhere in my garage and I figured if I bought another for $17, I'd find the one I had soon after. I'm not installing my extended ARP flywheel bolts without one on an ACT streetlite.
- extremepsi 4ply exhaust manifold gasket. have a used OEM 4ply but the extremepsi one is cheap and good if I accidentally bugger this one up somehow
- tb shaft seals. hedging my bets for my next BLT

Surprisingly enough, made the order before I started drinking anything.
With that, the rest of my bonus is gone. I was planning on using that money for the machine shop work when it's finally ready, but I'll just have to put myself on the corner for a few more nights to make it up.

curt-s said:

Ordered a few things..
- new ARP headstuds. Mine have a couple torques on them and figured if I'm already in this deep, why not use a new set
- UEGO 4110. Retiring the MTX-L. Mostly I'm doing this to validate that my WB readings are accurate
- TPP manifold blanket. Had one of these on my 1g until it literally disintegrated. Was fantastic.
- B&M 70273 to replace whatever cooler is on there now
- King XP rod bearings. Because I'm not super enthused about the ACLs I have and I want a third option ready during assembly
- new clutch pivot ball and release bearing. Already have an unused OEM but another for $40USD, I couldn't say no.
- A/T spacer plate because I lost mine somewhere in my garage and I figured if I bought another for $17, I'd find the one I had soon after. I'm not installing my extended ARP flywheel bolts without one on an ACT streetlite.
- extremepsi 4ply exhaust manifold gasket. have a used OEM 4ply but the extremepsi one is cheap and good if I accidentally bugger this one up somehow
- tb shaft seals. hedging my bets for my next BLT

Surprisingly enough, made the order before I started drinking anything.
With that, the rest of my bonus is gone. I was planning on using that money for the machine shop work when it's finally ready, but I'll just have to put myself on the corner for a few more nights to make it up.

Click to expand...

I’ll be waiting and ready. Usual spot?


But hopefully everything comes together soon! I kept my arp flywheel bolts just in case I need them but these ones I have are actually shorter than OEM.

CrackedDSM said:

I’ll be waiting and ready. Usual spot?


But hopefully everything comes together soon! I kept my arp flywheel bolts just in case I need them but these ones I have are actually shorter than OEM.

Click to expand...

I'll have to measure mine tomorrow and you can tell me how they stack up to OEMs. I didnt think to check before I chucked the last set I had.