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2G 1g swap in 2g

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Bubbadsm

Probationary Member
18
2
Jan 5, 2024
Williamsburg, Virginia
Hi there I’m in the middle of doing. 1g swap into a 2g. My question i need answer is do I have to switch to a 1g water pipe? And does the thermostat hook up to the water pipe?
 
The water pipe must match the thermostat housing you use.

If it’s a full 1G swap (i.e., including a 1G head), a 2G thermostat housing will not bolt up so it practically necessitates the use of a 1G water pipe.

Of course, it’s always possible to fab something up to make it work. But the most straightforward solution is the approach mentioned first.
 
The water pipe must match the thermostat housing you use.

If it’s a full 1G swap (i.e., including a 1G head), a 2G thermostat housing will not bolt up so it practically necessitates the use of a 1G water pipe.

Of course, it’s always possible to fab something up to make it work. But the most straightforward solution is the approach mentioned first.
So I would need a 1g water pipe? Does the water pipe or the radiator hose suppose to go it. I’m having troubles finding a diagram for it
 
Use the sensors front the 2gen housing?
 
I notice the flywheel has to be 6bolt does the clutch from my 99 have to changed out or no?
 
Does anyone know bout the 1g cas wiring or plug in play cas? I’m confused on how the wiring should be set up
 
Yes! - You want the sensors in your car to match the ECU. 2G ECU = 2G sensors
Sort of. In the case of the coolant temp sender, it's matching the harness plug. I continued to use the same 1g sender in my '91 when I went to a 1995 ecu and it worked fine, which is kind of the opposite of a 6-bolt swap. I didn't have to switch it for a 2g style. They have the same voltage-temp ramp rate it seems.
When you're swapping a complete 6-bolt in, yeah, just get the 2g sensor so that you're not swapping harness plugs to use the old style.
 
Has anyone ran into the upper radiator hose leaking after doing the swap?
 
If it's leaking at the rad, many people overtighten the clamp and crack the plastic.
If it's leaking at the upper tstat housing, your clamp is too loose or you have a hairline cut in the hose.
Your hose might also have a puncture/crack if it's got some age and has seen a thing or too.
 
If it's leaking at the rad, many people overtighten the clamp and crack the plastic.
If it's leaking at the upper tstat housing, your clamp is too loose or you have a hairline cut in the hose.
Your hose might also have a puncture/crack if it's got some age and has seen a thing or too.
Tired new clamps and hoes. Just confused why it’s leaking at the housing

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Last edited by a moderator:
Is that the lowest point on the hose? It's not wet anywhere else under that hose except right where it slips over the upper housing neck?

Sometimes the leak can be a bit higher or further towards the rad and it travels down the underside of the hose until it starts dripping there

If you tried a different hose then I figure a hose leak isn't your problem (unless they both had a hole). It must be the clamp on the upper just isn't providing enough pressure. What type of clamp are you using?
 
That’s the only spot where the leak happens. Use screw claps and oem claps
 
If the housing neck isn't cracked and the hose is dry underneath all the way to the rad, the only thing I can think of is switch to a t-bolt clamp and clean the neck of any debris/buildup.
 
The water necks are also very prone to pitting/corrosion, you can fill them in with some JB weld and put a new hose and new clamp on it.
 
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