I do not recall ever having an issue with either on anything from stock to bc, to all 3 kiggly options. Think the ones with TI right now all have kiggly high pressure or more for springs. We started to tulip factory valves on one with high...
Ouch. I was going to say having tuned many 1250cc low impedance cars they can have some quirks but usually could get them good enough. Yes though 2150cc high impedance do better then the old low half the size injectors.
Haha nice! Buddy still has a 1990 sitting on the barn at his place super clean but no motor. Hope someday he will sell me it. I love me the old flip up headlights.
Took my ecu and few other parts out of our shootout car and put them back into my street car. Has not ran in over half a year as 5 days before shootout we found out we had bad ecu so robbed mine to toss in that car to make shootout. Days before...
I would guess it’s something else making noise the knock sensor is picking up. IF the auto car I used as example with full DTR build, straight cut transfer gears, and full line pressure shifts does not do it. I also usually set the knock...
No. Auto vs manual ecu is no difference and it does not use any input from tcu to pull timing. There is a select few things that can pull timing on a DSM. Somewhere on this forum the list exists. The last car we did an auto awd swap on with...
I have myself never seen any “ stock” valve better than any other. Aftermarket any valve we have ever used had zero markings on the face of them, any stock valve can handle quite a lot. We have seen on last head we pulled the stock valve started...
So I did not read all the posts as it’s late. The way we always have done this is torque the tensioner pully. Gernade pin still in, rotate and confirm timing. Then pull pin, check again. Next day or when ever we check again as long as pin can...
So I have a buddy who in his 95 swapped to a 97+ cas. I do not recall how he wired it but in link I had to invert the signal. I wonder if this is same as a 6 bolt swap where the random misfire code will come up unless you have link to turn it...
The old threads are still here. They are still correct. I will always say maintenance first. We learned long ago these are old cars. Make them right first then follow the steps.
To me anything over a red you should be going t3 as you can make much more airflow and well out spool a black, not even including say a t4 twin scroll pte set up. That power on pump fuel will be the harder part with any bolt on mitsu housing turbo.
2k products work much better. I have never tried to clear raw aluminum though. I would assume already baking it is needed to draw the oils out. Then any kind of 2k clear likes 800-1,000 grit scratch. 2 coats and wait for clear to tack up before...
Hope for good results when its done. Tim is a great guy have had some guys i know deal with him and he has always been stand up. I figured these new gear sets would take a while and hope to be a good option.
Told my buddy/ customer its time for my parts back. Last year in shootout scramble we found his injectors and ecu where bad. I loaned him the ecu, injectors, bov, and a line for catch can. Car is still in our shop but told him its time i get them...
Has been a while since I did the linwideband on the older AEM. Memory says I would key on sensor unhooked would show 14.7 that voltage raw logged was switch point. Then lock car in open loop force lean and rich idle.I would use phone to record...